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Friday, 17 July 2015

Berber & Q - Grain Store Unleashed - The Shed - Baja California at Wahaca - Bull in a China Shop - Wine & Music at Terroirs

Time for a super speedy round-up of some delicious things I've eaten (or imbibed) but haven't managed to mention over the last two months

Grain Store Unleashed / The Shed / Baja California at Wahaca / Bull in a China Shop / Terroirs

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1. Cauliflower Shawarma & All The Meat at Berber & Q in Haggerston

After falling in love with entire grilled cauliflowers at Miznon in Paris, I was delighted to see it on a menu again so soon. Berber & Qs version with tahini and rose is a fine example of the genre. Be sure to get a load of Middle Eastern BBQ meat too - some Joojeh chicken thighs, smoked short-rib with date syrup glaze, smoked pork belly with pomegranate molasses BBQ sauce; that kind of thing.

Wash it down with a bespoke Crate brewery golden ale with za'atar, sumac, thyme and orange, or one of their fine cocktails. Sumac Habit with mezcal, chilli-infused aperol, dried lime and sumac is a good place to start.

I'll be back soon for weekend brunch - Turkish eggs with paprika butter, a Full Israeli, Tunisian shakshuka with red pepper jam and smoked beans with burnt-ends & merguez. 11am-3pm. Yes please.

Cauliflower Shawarma - photo from Berber & Q

Cauliflower Shawarma, Tahini, Rose

Blackened Aubergine Salad, Tomato Seed, Garlic Yoghurt

Berber & Q

Sumac Habit - Mezcal, Chilli-Infused Aperol, Dried Lime, Sumac

Half pints of house beer brewed by Crate - also available in 1.7 litre growlers

Berber & Q - berberandq.com

Arch 338, Acton Mews, Haggerston, London, E8 4EA

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2. Funky vegetables and rhubarb negronis at Grain Store Unleashed at The Zetter Hotel

You haven't got long to get over to Bruno Loubet's adventurous vegetable-fest at The Zetter Hotel - it's due to close on July 31st though I'm sure something else equally exciting will take it's place. Plus you've got the original Grain Store in King's Cross to keep you company, a new Grain Store Café & Bar coming soon to Gatwick, and Zetter Townhouse Marylebone arriving on 14th August.

But you should still rush over to Clerkenwell before the end of the month to get your hands on Bruno's corn brioche with avocado butter and all manner of other delights (see below). In the evening, it's tasting menus only. 8 courses for £39? Don't mind if I do. It's right up there with The Dairy & co. for affordable, high-end, innovative dining. Speaking of which, Robin Gill's Paradise Garage is opening up in Bethnal Green any day now.

Bruno Loubet's Grain Store Unleashed is at The Zetter Hotel until July 31st

Ginger Bread Iced Coffee

Rhubarb Negroni

Pickled Flowers & Rhubarb, Green Apple Purée, Bergamot Emulsion, Wild Sea Trout

Wild Trout Ceviche wrapped in Lettuce with Basil Oil & Avocado Sorbet

The remains of a colourful ceviche

Red Vegetables, Spiced Bread Sauce, Salted Lemon & Orange Purée, Wood Pigeon, Chilli Chocolate

Lemon & Strawberries Petit Pot, Rosemary Crumble

Chocolate Pie, Caramel & Miso Ice Cream

Parsnips & White Chocolate Cream, Matcha Tea, Pink Grapefruit & Passionfruit Gel, Caramelised Puffed Oat

Grain Store Unleashed - www.grainstoreunleashed.com

St John's Square, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5RJ

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3. The Entire Menu at The Shed in Notting Hill .... again

Well, almost. They are only small plates though, right? The Gladwin Bros. delivered yet again, from farm to plate to face. We powered through this lovely lot below (some of them twice) before finishing off with an entire bottle of Somerset Cider Brandy Kingston Black aperitif. I didn't get much done after that. I've highlighted my Top 3:

- ruby gem, red leicester, pistachio, radish, dill, leek bubbles 8.0

- pan fried goat’s cheese, hazelnuts, honey, thyme 6.5

- nutbourne heritage tomatoes, shed yoghurt, sumac, basil, red onion 8.5

- raw scallop, black summer truffle, garlic, kohlrabi 12.0

- wood pigeon, cauliflower, malt, pickled sultanas 9.0

- nutbourne grilled lamb, jersey royal gnocchi, peas, mint, dill 12.0

- the summer sparks magnum vienetta parfait 7.0

- honeycomb crunchy, chocolate, mascarpone, tarragon sugar 6.0

- chocolate, hazelnut butter, cherry pastille 6.0

- set cream, strawberries, tomatoes, meringue 6.0

Pan fried goat’s cheese, hazelnuts, honey, thyme

Ruby gem, red leicester, pistachio, radish, dill, leek bubbles

Raw scallop, black summer truffle, garlic, kohlrabi

Wood pigeon, cauliflower, malt, pickled sultanas

Nutbourne grilled lamb, jersey royal gnocchi, peas, mint, dill

Set cream, strawberries, tomatoes, meringue

Honeycomb crunchy, chocolate, mascarpone, tarragon sugar

The Shed - theshed-restaurant.com

122 Palace Gardens Terrace, London, W8 4RT

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4. Spinach Chlorophyll & Venison in Embers at Wahaca's Baja California supper club

Throughout 2015 Wahaca are inviting the most exciting and influential chefs from across Mexico to cook with Tommi Miers in the Covent Garden kitchen. I went along to a supper club run by Diego Hernandez (Head Chef of Corazon de Tierra, Ensenada) who came over to Wahaca for one-night only.

The event marked the start of an 8 week regional Baji California Menu that will feature the likes of Octopus Tostada with Peanut Chilli Oil and Clam, Mussels and Prawn Arroz Rojo. It should run til at least August 7th.

These dishes were the highlights (yes, including the last one):

- Tamal Colada (steamed corn parcel) with Wood Pigeon, Mole Amarillito, Rocket, Sour Cream and Dehydrated Parsnip

- Venison in Embers with Caldillo de Carne, Aubergine Puree, and Jersey Royal New Potatoes in Vegetable Infused Stock

- Truffled Cream with Spinach Chlorophyll, Radish, Caramel Panna Cotta and Balsamic - a classic from the Corazon de Tierra dessert list

Tommi's next visitor will be Enrique Olvera from Pujol which was recently named as the 16th best restaurant in the world.

One-off menu from Diego Hernandez at Wahaca

Pre-drinks in the Wahaca Covent Garden bar

Tamal Colada (steamed corn parcel) with Wood Pigeon, Mole Amarillito, Rocket, Sour Cream and Dehydrated Parsnip
- Photo from Wahaca website -

Venison in Embers with Caldillo de Carne, Aubergine Puree, and Jersey Royal New Potatoes in Vegetable Infused Stock
- Photo from Wahaca website -

Baja California regional menu at Wahaca - www.wahaca.co.uk/locations/covent-garden/

66 Chandos Place, Covent Garden, London WC2N 4HG

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5. Cocktails & Japanese Whisky at Bull in a China Shop in Shoreditch

We dropped in to Bull in a China Shop soon after it had opened, and the food menu has changed a fair amount since our visit, but I can vouch for the booze (and the atmospheric lighting).

They've got a great selection of Japanese whiskies and an appealing cocktail list to match. Go for a Wabi / Sabi with Hakushu Single Malt Distiller's Reserve, Cocchi di Torino, Matcha green tea syrup, Black walnut bitters, or a Chamomile & Charcoal Old Fashioned with Nikka Yoichi, home made chamomile syrup, bitters, coconut, and charcoal, finished with an orange twist. Or treat yourself to a £55 25ml dram of Karuizawa 1981 (bottled in 2014).

You can't far wrong with the rotisserie chicken (brined with ginger, and marinated overnight in Asian yoghurt with a Nikka whisky glaze), or the Cinnamon bread & butter pudding with chamomile spiced rum custard. The Panko crusted chicken burger with pickled ginger, Japanese mayonnaise, and mango & lime chutney is also worth a look. Skip the salads.

Bull in a China Shop - www.bullinachinashop.london

196 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6LG

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6. Snails, wine & vinyl at Terroirs Wine Bar in the West End

Ben Adamo & Darren Smith from Wine and Vinyl have teamed up with Terroirs wine bar & restaurant in Charing Cross to put on "Wine and Music" evenings on the first Wednesday of every month in the cosy cellar space (£3 entry).

N.B. The next #WineWednesday will be in September

To kick off the series, on the hottest day of the year, Ben & Darren put together a set list drawing from the sound tracks of cult movies such as Pulp Fiction and Full Metal Jacket, whilst classic wine moments from film history were projected on to the walls.

A condensed version of Terroirs’ 200 bin wine list has been carefully compiled for the event, showcasing five whites and five reds by the bottle as well as ten wines by the glass and a couple of bottles of sparkling. It's a quirky list with a real range of styles on offer - Amphibolite Nature, Jo Landon was ideal for the 36° heat, as was the Magnum of Casa Coste Piane Prosecco, whilst the Pinot Blanc, Gerrard Shueller is a must for sour beer fans.

Head Chef, Dale Osbourne, has put together a seasonally-focused tapas menu, comprising a selection of Terroirs’ signature dishes. I was really impressed with all of our plates, but particularly the Jamón de Bellota, Salt Croquetas & Aioli, Snails on Toast with Garlic, Parsley & Bacon and the unusual Black Pudding & Beets.

It's a great date spot, especially on Wine & Music Wednesdays - check @Terroirs on Twitter for #WineWednesdays updates.

Terroirs - terroirswinebar.com

Wine & Vinyl - twitter.com/wineandvinyl

5 William IV Street, London, WC2N 4DW

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Wednesday, 17 June 2015

The Jolly Gardeners - Chick'N'Sours - Fu Manchu

Today on the blog - three completely unrelated new food & drink spots that I checked out in May. I could try and segue between them, but it wouldn't be pretty.

Read on for gastropub fare with an Indian twist from a former MasterChef winner; all the fried chicken and Negroni sours from DJ Carl Clarke; and a villainous dim sum and cocktail joint in Clapham North.

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Friday 15th May - Dhruv Baker embarked on a career in food after winning MasterChef in 2010, gaining experience in Le Gavroche & The Kitchin amongst other top restaurants. More recently he teamed up with Adam Pomaro to launch catering company Earlsfield Kitchen before deciding over a bottle of wine (or two) that they might as well go one step further and take over an actual kitchen in Earlsfield - that of The Jolly Gardeners pub.

I went down primarily to take some photos but ended up eating a whole lot of wonderful food with Jo The Sis. A quick scan of the menu reveals standard pub items - pork belly, lamb, asparagus, steak etc. It's only after a second look that you start to spot Dhruv's Indian influences sneaking in - tamarind yoghurt, cardamom puree, turmeric and fennel better, and so on. This is what takes The Jolly Gardeners dishes to the next level.

Our two starters were simply magnificent (and oh so photogenic - beware NSFW eggporn below).

- English Asparagus, Soft-Boiled Burford Brown Egg, Bacon & Sage Crumble, Hollandaise - £8

- Spiced Crab Cakes, Shaved Fennel, Tamarind Yoghurt £8

You can't really go wrong with egg, bacon, asparagus and a tonne of butter - the Burford Brown egg was beautifully cooked and presented in a light crumb batter. A generous portion of moreish crab cakes were elevated by shaved fennel and that tamarind yoghurt.

English Asparagus, Soft-Boiled Burford Brown Egg, Bacon & Sage Crumble, Hollandaise

Spiced Crab Cakes, Shaved Fennel, Tamarind Yoghurt

Pork Terrine, Pickled Vegetables, Honey & Mustard Dressing

We sought out more of Dhruv's unconventional flavours in our mains:

- Pan-fried Sea Bream, Turmeric & Fennel Butter, Coconut Green Beans, Cumin Sautéed Potatoes - £14

- 28 day aged Ribeye Steak, Teriyaki Glaze, Shallot Puree, Fries - £22.50

If you want your kids to eat their greens, invite Dhruv round for tea and tell him to bring his coconuts. And if you think you've had steak and chips one too many times, I can highly recommend their teriyaki glaze twist, supported by a scene-stealing dollop of shallot puree. Delicious.

Pan-fried Sea Bream, Turmeric & Fennel Butter, Coconut Green Beans, Cumin Sautéed Potatoes

28 day aged Ribeye Steak, Teriyaki Glaze, Shallot Puree, Fries

Pork Belly, Carrot and Cardamom Puree, Curly Kale, Chimichurri

Portions are generous throughout, but do not under any circumstances skip dessert, however full you are. £7.50 may look a little pricey on the page, but once you've tasted Dhruv's bonkers creations you'll be going back for seconds. Here are four of the best:

- Raspberry Mille Feuille, Chantilly Cream, Raspberry Sorbet, Raspberry Tuille - £7.50

- Chocolate Cake, Guinness Sauce, Hazelnut Brittle Ice Cream - £7.50

- Rocky Road, Blood Orange, Vanilla Cream, Banana and Black Sesame Ice Cream - £7.50

- Banana Tarte Fine, Sea Salt Caramel, Peanut Butter Parfait - £7.50

We demolished the bottom two on that list, both of which had even more fun on the plate than mentioned above. It's real Willy Wonka stuff (though not quite to Parlour's level) that'll send you back on to Garratt Lane with a big grin on your face.

Chocolate Cake, Guinness Sauce, Hazelnut Brittle Ice Cream

Banana Tarte Fine, Sea Salt Caramel, Peanut Butter Parfait

Rocky Road, Blood Orange, Vanilla Cream, Banana and Black Sesame Ice Cream

Three courses at The Jolly Gardeners will set you back around £30-40 before booze which is a pricey night out at the pub, but Dhruv & co. are on to something special here and I wouldn't be surprised if awards and accolades start coming their way once the rest of London takes notice. It's worth going well out of your way for, and I suggest you do so soon before word gets out.

Kitchen hours - Closed Mondays, Tue-Sat - 12:00-15:00 / 18:30-22:00, Sundays - 12:00-15:30

214 Garratt Lane, Wandsworth, London, SW18 4EA

The Jolly Gardeners - www.thejollygardeners.co.uk

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Saturday 9th May - DJ turned Chef Carl Clarke has been winning fans all over London with his Disco Bistro Chicken Wings (Disco Wings for short) at various popups, residencies and street food events, but he's finally settled down in Haggerston.

Chick'N'Sours is the newest member of Roy Walker's "say what you see" club that also includes Duck & Waffle, Burger & Lobster, and Meat & Shake. Smoking Goat, Dirty Bones and Smack haven't quite got the hang of it.

Hard to read, laminated menus could do with an A4 upgrade

Much like Stokey Bears up the road, Chick'N'Sours is bathed in a mysterious, unphotogenic blue light that takes me back to Cindy's and Life, two of Uni's cheesiest clubs. Thankfully the music is better. By the time we all arrive, it's pushing 10pm (after drinks at Original Sin and The Three Compasses), but we manage to squeeze nine around a table. Carl & co. warn us that chicken on the bone has flown out, taking all of the burger buns with it, but that there's plenty else left to munch on. Game on.

We start off with a round of their £6 half-pint sour cocktails and a few £4 cans of Fourpure. The Chick'N'Club House Sour is a winner with Gin, Sugar, Lemon, Raspberry & Chilli Vinegar, and Vermouth, and the Negroni Sour with Campari, Vermouth, Rosewater and Lemon also hits the spot. Much like at Chicken Liquor in Brixton, the idea is that the sour drinks cut through the richness of the chicken, "like vinegar on chips" says Carl. I'd still lean towards the beers myself, but he's not wrong.

Negroni Sour

The first food to arrive was a zingy bowl of fried Szechuan Aubergine with citrus, chilli oil & sesame seeds. It's a great foil to Carl's sticky Disco Wings which might just be the best in London with their perfectly balanced sweet and salty coating. Pickled Watermelon, Peanut and Coriander is another stonking side - one of our number demands that we order a second portion after a single mouthful. In fact, all of our little plates are a marvel, from the crunchy and moreish House Pickles to the fresh Yam Bean 'Slaw with Ginger & Miso Mayo.

Szechuan Aubergine

Pickled Watermelon, Peanut and Coriander

With no buns in the house, they instead improvise with lettuce as a vehicle for their "burger", though apparently this option may appear on the menu soon. Either way, the Korean Fried Thigh with fiery Gochujang Mayo, Chilli Vinegar and Crunchy 'Slaw gets the thumbs up. I meanwhile opt for the Guest Fry seasoned with Chilli Jam, Crispy Shallots, Thai Basil, Mint and Spring Onion - absolutely delicious but perhaps a little small for £10. Last but not least, the chips arrive with a phenomenal St.Agur & Buttermilk dip. It's a good thing they don't come round selling bottles of the stuff.

Guest Fry - Chilli Jam, Crispy Shallots, Thai Basil, Mint, Spring Onion

Fries with St.Agur & Buttermilk Dip

As the evening draws to a close, tasters of Weetabix Soft Serve are passed round. It tastes of Weetabix alright, but is that something that anybody wants? I remain unconvinced.

I'm soon distracted by Chick'N'Sours branded transfers that arrive with the bill, causing widespread napkin dabbing and transfer application amongst our group. My skin seems more reluctant than others, but eventually accepts a botched attempt that reads closer to Chickn Soup. It had better come off. In a nice touch, the bill presentation finally answers the age old question of whether the chicken or the egg came first.

Weetabix Soft Serve with Toasted Weetabix Crunch

Don't leave without a few Chick'N'Sours transfers!

Chick'N'Sours in an eggshell - Fantastic food, dodgy lighting.

N.B. They are also open for brunch at the weekends, serving up "Son in Law Eggs" & Brunch Buns

P.S. No reservations on Friday / Saturday, get your name on the list and grab a drink nearby

Your best options are vino at Rotorino or craft beers from The Fox's vending machine and Beavertown beers from Duke's Brew & Que.

Mon - Closed, Tue-Thu - 6pm-10pm, Fri - 6pm-10:30pm

Sat - 12pm-3:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm, Sunday - 12pm-3:30pm, 6pm-9:30pm

390 Kingsland Road, London, E8 4AA

Chick'N'Sours - chicknsours.co.uk

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Wednesday 13th May - Back over in South West London, a late night dim sum and cocktail bar named after the villainous Fu Manchu has opened up in a railway arch by Clapham North.

It gets a bit clubby for Matt The List's tastes, and cocktails were a mixed bag at the launch, but having an extensive dim sum menu available til late is definitely a bonus. London bars are incredibly poor at providing quality, filling food with drinks - hopefully others will follow Fu Manchu's example.

For a in-depth look at the cocktails, head over to Highball Hoodoo's boozy blog. We enjoyed the delicate Secret Essence of the Poppey Hill (Sake, St.Germain, Rose Liqueur, Lime Juice, Cucumber) and Blood of Fu Manchu (Eristoff Vodka infused with Chinese 5 Spice, 10yo Port, Ginger Purée, Oyster Sauce, Chilli Powder, Tomato Juice) but were left bemused by a Green Matcha powder-based Green Tea-Ni that shouldn't have made the cut.

If it's dim sum you are after, head down on a Sunday this June to take advantage of their £19.95 all-you-can-eat offer from 12pm-10pm (1.5 hrs maximum stay!). The Chao You Sai Laan Fa (Salt, Pepper and Chilli Broccoli) was pretty excellent, and there are 36 other tasty treats to stuff your face with too.