Morden & Lea - Lobos Meat & Tapas - The Fire Station - News

Three relatively new openings to take a look at today - Morden and Lea / Lobos Meat & Tapas / The Fire Station

Translation: I actually went along a couple of months ago to all three when they were brand new, but then I skipped town for most of July & August. In my defence, I've since been to 200+ food and drink places in 60 days across West Coast USA, Edinburgh, Berlin and London, though I haven't written up any of those either. Search for #MattTheTrips on Instagram or Twitter for proof. Anyway, better late than never, right?

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First up, Mark Sargeant's two-floor modern brasserie Morden & Lea on Wardour Street, "named after cartographers Morden and Lea, who were the first to map Soho in the 17th century".

Morden & Lea has a colourful, eye-catching frontage that's best approached from Lisle Street. Upstairs you'll find a dining room for refined brasserie food (£29 for 2 courses or £35 for 3) and people watching views if you are lucky, whilst downstairs is a more relaxed space for a lighter, less spenny meal and a drink or two - that's where you'll find me!

We wasted no time and ordered some tartines (French open sandwiches) and small plates to share. Smoked Cod Roe with Bottarga was scooped up with fresh sourdough before several tartines were demolished. There are usually nine or so on the menu to pick from, mostly around the £5 mark. Broad Bean, Pea and Pecorino was much more thrilling than it sounds, and Lyonnaise Onion, Olives and Anchovy instantly converted an anchovy-abstainer.

We restrained ourselves on the tartines though as there was still Mark's Crab Sausage Roll (£8.50) to come. That's right, crab meat wrapped in puff pastry, served with a bowl of brown crab meat ketchup for good measure. Yes please.

Broad bean, pea and pecorino tartine

Lyonnaise onions, olives and anchovy tartine

The Crab Sausage Roll doing the rounds on Instagram

Before dessert, it was time to check out the eclectic cocktail menu. I kept things boozy with The Calvados Cocktail (Somerset Cider Brandy, Caol Ila 12yo, French Triple Sec, Orange & Pink Grapefruit Cordial) and a James E. Pepper - "Jamaican Rum meets Scottish Lowlands & Louisiana's finest tobacco with touches of Peruvian bitters, served with South American crisp". Translation: Appleton Estate VX, Auchentoshan 3 Wood, Jade Perique Tobacco Liqueur, and Bitters. Put a fair amount of time aside for this all-booze concoction.

I also returned on another occasion for a couple more. The Boulevardier with Redemption Rye and an olive twist went down very nicely, and then there was the bonkers Velvet Revolver Punch, Morden & Lea's Mezcal Monopoly number in an upturned shiny & chrome hat for £30.  A third visit is required for a Rough Sketch - Del Maguey Vida, Diplomatico Blanco Reserva, Poppy Seed Milk and Charcoal Sugar. Their creative concoctions are mostly priced around £9-11.

The Calvados Cocktail - Somerset Cider Brandy, Caol Ila 12yo, Orange & Pink Grapefruit

James E. Pepper - Appleton Estate VX, Auchentoshan 3 Wood, Jade Perique Tobacco Liqueur, Bitters

James E. Pepper - Rum, Scotch, Bitters. Boozy.

Now - dessert. There are some great £5 options on the downstairs menu (e.g. Set Dark Chocolate with Mocha Sherbert and Buttermilk Pudding), but if you ask nicely you might also get your hands on one of the fancy puddings from upstairs. I'm talking Warm Sugared Doughnuts with Plum Jam and Hazelnut Ice Cream and their signature Gypsy Tart.  The latter is a typical Kentish pudding that is basically pastry, muscovado sugar and evaporated milk - simple and sinful. Here's the recipe:

Mark Sargeant's Gypsy Tart

For the pastry (makes 500g):

125g unsalted butter 

90g caster sugar 

1 large egg 

250g plain flour

For the tart:

300g pastry 

400g evaporated milk 

330g muscovado sugar

Combine the butter and caster sugar in a food processor. Add the egg; process for 30 seconds. Tip in the flour and process for a few seconds until the dough just comes together. Add 1 tbsp cold water if the dough seems dry. Knead on a floured surface then shape into a flat disc and chill for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 170C/gas mark 3. 

Roll out 300g of the pastry and use to line a 21cm tart tin. Line the pastry case with greaseproof paper; fill with baking beans and bake for 15 minutes, then remove the baking beans. Return to the oven for 5-10 minutes until the base is a pale golden brown. 

Whisk the milk and sugar together until light and fluffy (it takes about 15 minutes). Pour the milk mixture into the pre-baked pastry case then cook for 5-10 minutes until risen and the surface is tacky.

Remove from oven and leave to cool and set before serving. Done.

If you like the look of the Gypsy Tart, you should probably read this Telegraph article, before heading to The Marksman and Café Murano for similar puddings.

Mark Sargeant's outstanding Gypsy Tart - recipe above

Upstairs - Mon-Sat: 12pm-3pm & 5:30pm-11pm // Downstairs - Mon-Sat: 11.30am-1am

17 Wardour Street, Soho, London W1D 6PJ

Morden & Lea - mordenandlea.com

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You might also like this post - No Reservations : Soho

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Next - a trip to the hidden caves of Lobos Meat & Tapas in Borough Market.

Tucked underneath the railway bridge on Borough High Street are the doors to this meaty den from former Brindisa boys, Roberto, Joel, Cortés and Ruben. It's a funny old space, a little tight in places, but there are pleasing décor and lighting touches all around.

Feeling indecisive, we left most of the decision making up to our outstanding server who chose some fino sherries and tapas plates to get us going. 

- Martini Olives - £4

- Octopus Vinaigrette - £5.50

- Croquetas - Ham, Chorizo & Smoked Bacon - £7

- Cazón en Adobo - Deep-fried Marinated Dogfish - £7.50

- Baked Tetilla Cheese - With Toasted Vegetables and Brandy - £9

- Arroz Con Costra - Chicken, Chorizo & Saffron Rice with Egg Crust & Morcilla - £8.50

The Martini Olives, though nicely presented didn't quite come off, and the Octopus Vinaigrette was pleasant but not particularly exciting. The rest however were winners. Croquetas and deep-fried marinated dogfish disappeared in no time before two eye-catching pots and pans arrived. 

Baked Tetilla Cheese came soaked in brandy and was promptly set on fire, briefly illuminating our shadowy alcove - toasted vegetables might not be everyone's first choice to chuck in with molten cheese, but it worked well.  Arroz Con Costra ("Rice with crust") was presented in its clay pot with chicken, chorizo and morcilla to keep the meat eaters happy. The cities of Elche and Orihuela both claim to the origin of the dish - either way, I'm glad it's made its way to London.

Croquetas - Ham, Chorizo and Smoked Bacon // Photo from Lobos website

Baked Tetilla Cheese with Toasted Vegetables and Brandy

We didn't leave a whole lot of room for one of their signature meat plates, but we soldiered on anyway. It was a tough call passing on the Chuleton (sirloin on the bone) and the Roasted Leg of Lamb (pictured below) but we opted for variety with the Iberico Pork Selection - Pork Fillet, Secreto and Presa to share with sides - £26.50

- Marinated Iberico Pork Fillet with Trintxat Potatoes
- Hidden, fatty Secreto cut of Iberico Pork with Mojo Chips
- Pan-fried Presa Iberica shoulder with Roasted Peppers

What's not to like? The matched sides are a nice touch, and it's perfect for sharing. Alternatively, you can order any of the cuts individually if you need something smaller after all of the tapas plates.

Pierna de Cordero - Roasted Castillian leg of milk fed lamb - £28.50 // Photo from Lobos website

There's plenty to enjoy at Lobos, and there were some particular high notes in the tapas plates, but it's up against stiff competition in London. Donostia in Pop Brixton and Barrafina (three sites) are top alternatives with a great buzz about them, though they don't match Lobos for mega meat cuts!

Mon-Sat 12-3.30 & 5.30-11 / Closed Sundays

14 Borough High Street, London. SE1 9QG

Lobos Meat & Tapas - lobostapas.co.uk

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Finally, The Fire Station in Waterloo recently reopened as an all-day hangout, totally refurbished, with a smart selection of food and drink to boot.  

DISCLAIMER: I received a toy fire truck on arrival, so the following write-up may be biased

You can drop in for Caravan coffee from 7am (9am at weekends), settle in for breakfast every day of the week, swing by for a cheeky lunchtime or post-work pint, sip on boozy cocktails with friends, or nosh on sub £10 burgers and pizzas. It may sound like they are going down the Jack of all trades route, but when the alternative is The Wellington over the road, this is exactly what Waterloo Station needs.

Let's start with the cocktails (all £8-9). Most of the menu would fall in to the too-sweet-for-me category, but there are three interesting smoked cocktails (in honour of  that I'd happily order again. The core booze is smoked in advance, rather than the cocktail itself, so the effect is subtle not overpowering. Not bad for a station pub.

- Cinnamon-Smoked Old Fashioned - Cinnamon-smoked Bulleit Bourbon, homemade cinnamon syrup 

- Smoked Cherry Manhattan - Bulleit Bourbon, Jim Beam Black Cherry Bourbon, Herring Cherry Brandy, Lillet Blanc, Lillet Rouge, Cherry Syrup Oak Smoked

- Honey & Basil Smoked Daiquiri - Applewood-smoked Havana 3YO Rum, Lime, Honey, Basil

As for beer, there are nine or so on draught, plus a selection of ales.  The range wasn't particularly thrilling (Birra Morretti, Amstel, Camden Hells, Meantime Pils - one of those would do), but if Beavertown Neck Oil Session IPA is always on then I'll be happy. You can also get some fine cans from their fridges (e.g. Beavertown x 3, Founders All Day IPA, Flying Dog Easy IPA and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale).

Cinnamon-Smoked Old Fashioned - Cinnamon-smoked Bulleit Bourbon, homemade cinnamon syrup

Smoked Cherry Manhattan - Bulleit Bourbon, Jim Beam Black Cherry Bourbon, Herring Cherry Brandy, Lillet Blanc, Lillet Rouge, Cherry Syrup Oak Smoked

Beavertown Brewery cans

On to the food, it's pizzas or burgers all the way, with a few sides to keep them company - watch out for that spicy coleslaw.

I sneaked one tasty slice of a Margherita (£7.95) before tucking in to a few of their burgers which have clearly taken inspiration from London's buzzing burger scene:

- Cheese - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, American mustard mayo, bacon ketchup, cheese, sliced beef tomato, little gem - £7.95

- Maple Glaze Bacon - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, maple-glazed thick cut bacon, cheese, American mustard mayo, sliced beef tomato, little gem - £8.50

- Black & Gold - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, black pudding, double cheese, American mustard mayo, sliced beef tomato - £9.95

- Glazed Short Rib - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, balsamic-glazed short rib, American mustard mayo, sliced beef tomato, little gem - £10.95

They were all suitably messy and meaty, but when Bleecker Street's award-winning Bleecker Black is a mere 5 minute walk away underneath Hungerford Bridge, there's no contest - the Black & Gold suffers in comparison there. More successful is the excellent Glazed Short Rib burger which would probably be my first choice next time, and sweet potato fries are always welcome.

Glazed Short Rib - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, balsamic-glazed short rib, American mustard mayo

Maple Glaze Bacon - 6 oz dry aged beef patty, maple-glazed thick cut bacon, cheese, American mustard mayo

There are of course better places for beer, cocktails, coffee, brunch, burgers and pizzas all over London, but The Fire Station does well on all fronts and is a great option with attractive interior design and tonnes of space, right next to Waterloo Station. Sold.

Mon-Wed: 7am-11pm, Thu-Fri: 7am-12am, Sat: 9am-12am, Sun: 9am-10:30pm

The Fire Station - thefirestationwaterloo.com

150 Waterloo Road, London, SE1 8SB

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Looking for great beer around London's Southbank? Look no further.

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Let's finish off with a few bits and bobs of clickbait news and nonsense on food, booze and events:

- Climpson's Arch Thai heroes Som Saa launched a crowdfunding campaign, and smashed it within 72 hours, raising £700,000+

- The folk behind world-renowned Nightjar bar have revealed details on their new bar, Oriole

- London Cocktail Week is just around the corner (5th-11th October) - get your wristbands now

- The only place for #craftbeerwankers to be tomorrow (19th Sept) is Beavertown Brewery for the incredible, trans-atlantic rainbow project

- The awesome Kansas Smitty's House Band are finally releasing their album in their Broadway Market bar on 23rd September before going on a tour of London bars including Nightjar's new Oriole bar.

- The list of new Michelin Stars had to be released a day early after a book store starting selling copies of the latest guide. Catch up on the winners (and Bib Gourmand awards) here.

- The Evening Standard has released The Progress 1000: London's most influential people 2015 - Food & Drink

- Caravan, Pizza Pilgrims, Brunswick House, Petersham Nurseries and more coming to the Frieze Art Fair in Regent's Park - 14th-17th October

- Couple quit jobs to run a pizza boat in the Caribbean

- Space whisky glass

- Space whisky

Thanks.

Edwins - Cecil's - Gillray's

Wednesday 12th March - The Trinity Pub in Borough is a regular haunt, as I often rehearse at nearby Henry Wood Hall with KSO (we're only one letter away from being the LSO), so I was delighted to hear that the publicans were opening a restaurant upstairs called Edwins.  I popped along with three friends during their soft opening, after a pint downstairs first of course.

All of the beautiful photos of Edwins that you see below are the work of Paul Winch-Furness, one of London's finest food & drink photographers.  Paul was clearly a big fan of the stunning little dining room, and released several pictures in advance that caught my eye.  We particularly liked the look of the raised table by the bar which would be perfect for surveying the rest of the room.

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

They have an excellent gin selection with the likes of St.George's Dry Rye, Boxer and Monkey 47 available, a decent wine list, and they benefit on the beer front from the pub downstairs

The starters or "small plates" were superb across the board.  Beetroot, Curd & Pomegranate (pictured below) was light and bursting with flavour.  Scallops in Filo with Harissa Mayo were everything that we had hoped, and Crispy Pork Belly with Cauliflower and Rabbit, Polenta & Parmesan also impressed. Expanding that section of the menu and letting it take over proceedings would be a wise move!

Beetroot, Curd & Pomegranate - Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Main courses displayed more good cooking and attractive presentation, but they didn't quite match the high standards set by the inventive starters.  My Wild Venison with baby root veg and shallott purée was perfectly tasty, though £17 was perhaps a tad too high, especially as I needed some garlic mash on the side. Natalie's Grilled Seafood Bouillabaisse was very popular, and the generous portion earned the £18 price tag.

Vegetarians will be happy with the likes of Honey roasted pear, kohlrabi, walnut & ricotta salad and Gnocchi, Somerset blue, walnuts on the menu.

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

Photo Credit - Paul Winch-Furness

For dessert, there are two puddings to choose from and a cheese board.  We went for the Pear & Almond Tart with Chantilly Cream and Chocolate Fondant with Honeycomb Icecream.  These were solid but uninspiring, I think there is room for something even better here or maybe just one more choice.  The fondant appeared with pistachio ice cream, a reasonable replacement, though not ideal for someone that was craving honeycomb or with a nut allergy.

A photo from me to prove I was there - Pear & Almond Tart

Criticisms were small though, mainly due to the small plates being so exceptional and raising expectations for the rest of the meal! The atmosphere is delightful and the staff were very friendly.  Service could be tightened up a bit, but its obviously very early days and I've been watching far too much of Russell Norman's Restaurant Man.  It's one of the cosiest dining rooms I have visited in London, and I can imagine it being equally pleasant in the day time with light crashing through the windows - perhaps I will return to try out their Saturday/Sunday brunch menu which is very enticing.

One more stop for the evening - we walked off a small amount of our three course meal as we made our way to Cecil's, London's latest speakeasy basement bar, just off Bermondsey Street.  Head down deserted Holyrood Street and look out for this gentlemen pictured below who will point you in the right direction...

Once inside, we made our way past some candlelit crates in a dark & atmospheric entrance, and headed downstairs to find a gorgeous art deco bar with an opium den / tea warehouse vibe - pure escapism on a par with Le Quecumbar and The Last Word.  A folk guitarist had the room under his spell, so we quietly found a table and perused the cocktail menu.

Cocktails are £6.50-£8.50 - I highly recommend The April 12th Incident (Santa Teresa Reserva rum w/ cognac, peach liqueur, breakfast tea, lemon, sugar) which is a steal at £6.50.  The Opium Tears was a twice shaken gin sour with ginger & maraschino, whilst Yuzu Shu Fizz was a refreshing mix of gin, sake, fino sherry, lemon, sugar & club soda.  We were also tempted by the Pot of Iniquity, "a melting pot of sloe gin, fresh lime, and apricot brandy" for 3/4 people to share for £25.  The complimentary giant bowl of shelled peanuts was very much appreciated, though it's hard to crack them quietly with live music playing, and we made quite a mess.  I'm told there is also a small Chinese food menu available.

Live music (and poetry / spoken word) is usually just on Wednesdays, with the occasional featured band on a Friday, and Saturdays are reserved for the rather special UFF Tea Merchant nights:

"Uff Tea brings 1930's Shanghai to life every Saturday night. Their extraordinary Oolong Weekend Tea Blend possesses transformative qualities that are said to be capable of transporting the consumer to another place and another time...

"Guests will find themselves transported to a cocktail party hosted by Mr Cecil Russell George Uff esq., who entertains his guests in the courtyard of his art deco residence. With live Jazz and our most wonderful cocktails."

Tickets are £15 (book in advance here) - effort is required on the attire front.  I very much enjoy their dress code advice on the website:

Ladies - Dress Code

"Prohibition has ended and a new era of fashion and femininity is upon us. A gal who takes risks with her fashion reflects modern times; be bold, beautiful, but don't be brash. Leave your coats and preconceptions at the door.

"Be it strapless, off the shoulder or a plunging backless crowd pleaser, Ladies this is the night to adorn yourself in that dress with the perfect décolletage. 'Ooh swish'. Alternatively for those who have the courage to embrace the masculate, high waisted trouser suits of matching colour and cloth will be sure to make the boys heads turn.

"Outrageous, extravagant or hedonistic, the only scandal would be to remain unremarkable betwixt the glittering moths that come and go among the whisperings, champagne and stars. What better way to stand out than draped in the richest colours and fabrics of the hour? Don't cache yourself away my dear, this is the night to see and be seen."

Men - Dress Code

"Though sir cannot go wrong in black tie and polished oxfords, for gentlemen who wish to hold court of an evening, a white tie and tails ensemble is a sure fire way to show who is in charge. Lounge suits properly pressed will work for the more unassuming man.

"Don't leave the accessories to your best gal; pocket squares, a Topper, Fedora, Boater, or Panama could be worn, with the consideration that the appropriate occasion may dictate that one must tip it in gesture.

"A fashionable man shouldn't be seen in public without a choice bit of silk adoring his neck. A smart tie is good, a bow tie is better. Shoes shone, hair slicked, and a kindly smile.

"Those who dare to wear 'Zoot' must have character to match. Fortune may favor the bold, but with risk there comes peril gentleman. Serving military personnel are welcome to wear Service Dress with properly polished boots, buckles and braces. However, we ask you to leave your sabre at the door.

"For those joining us from overseas, we welcome you to sport your national finery."

Cecil's is a brilliant addition to London's nightlife, and something that Bermondsey Street really needed.  I have recommended it to many people since my visit, and I suggest that you do the same!

Tuesday 11th March - The night before Edwins and Cecil's, I spent a rare evening out with my father as we were both invited over to Gillray's Steakhouse & Bar in London Marriott Hotel County Hall.  

County Hall under construction – circa 1920

I was attracted by the +70 gins behind the bar, but my Dad's angle was that he once worked in the same building when it was home to the Greater London Council (GLC).  Here's what he had to say:

"It was fascinating to visit the Marriott Hotel, having worked in the building as an administrative officer for the Greater London Council from 1969 until its abolition by Mrs Thatcher in 1986, and subsequently for the London Residuary Body, which devolved all the GLC’s powers to the London Boroughs and various quangos from then until I was made redundant in 1992.  I wouldn’t be surprised to hear that there is still some ex GLC officer (like a Japanese soldier believing World War Two is in progress) in a room in County Hall deciding where some GLC powers should be allocated!

Hiroo Onoda

"The area where the magnificent Gillray’s Steakhouse and Bar is situated was known as the Principal Floor and was only visited by officers when summoned to the Director General or one of the Members (politicians). I spent most of my career in the Transport Department so would be telephoned by the Chairman of the Transport Committee and asked to pop down to see him. This was a hazardous undertaking as one usually didn’t know what to expect and I often found myself explaining to angry constituents why they couldn’t have a particular traffic measure in their area. This was not part of my job description as the decision was clearly one for the Chairman based on options put to him by my professional colleagues!

"On my visit with Matt, I was very impressed with the care that has been taken to preserve the oak-panelled corridors and rooms on the Principal Floor - including the Members’ Library, still containing many of the books which were there in the days of the GLC.  But I must give pride of place to the delicious sherry trifle!"

Members' Library - a great spot for a boozy afternoon tea

I'll get to the sherry trifle.

Gillray's is named after James Gillray (1756 – 1815), whose artwork adorns the walls.  He was one of the three great British caricaturists, the others being William Hogarth (1697 – 1764) and Thomas Rowlandson (1756 – 1827).  He was particularly known for his political satires, many directed against George III.

ca. 1809 --- A political cartoon of Prime Minister William Pitt and Napoleon Bonaparte dividing up the globe, almost certainly after the Peace of Amiens in 1802. The legend reads "The Plumb-pudding in danger, or, State Epicures taking un Petit Souper, "the great Globe itself and all which it inherit" is too small to satisfy such unsatiable appetites."

The views from the windows of the bar at Gillray's are spectacular (Big Ben, The Houses of Parliament, The London Eye and the River Thames and co.) - if that's not enough for you, spend a night in the Balcony Suite! The bar itself is impressive with its imposing, tall Chesterfield sofas and an enormous Swarovski Crystal chandelier centre stage.  It is also one of the few bars in the area to have a Division Bell - an 8 minute warning for MPs to drink up and get back to the appropriate Division Lobby to vote for or against a resolution.

The Balcony Suite

As I mentioned, there are +70 gins behind the bar, and more importantly some very capable bartenders making an array of exciting cocktails, including the theatrical At Dusk pictured below (Caorunn Gin, Velvet Falernum, Kamm & Sons Ginseng spirit, lemon, orange, sugar).  I started with a superb Aged Negroni before moving on to a Night Bird (Xoriguer gin, Blackcurrant liqueur, vanilla syrup, cardamom essence, lemon, mango).  Non-alcoholic cocktails such as Mango, Mint & Moravian Pleasure will keep designated drivers / teetotallers happy too.  If you are feeling adventurous, you can order using iPads, but traditional menus are available too!

At Dusk - cocktail at Gillray's

We also shared a lovely bottle of Digby Fine English Sparkling Wine, 2009 Reserve Brut I believe.  That's right, we aren't just good for gin!  It is only available in select places at the moment including Selfridges, Charlotte's Bistro and Restaurant Story - well worth seeking out.

"An intriguing character, elegant with a certain raciness, this award-winning vintage is our blend of hand-harvested English Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes ripened in 2009’s gloriously sunny September.

"Refined bubbles deliver a crisp, refreshing apple and peach character, with a creamy biscuit finish. An inspired dining partner with smoked salmon or the most delectable oddities from your local cheesemonger. Quaff in the moment or cellar carefully."

Now, Gillray's is a specialist steakhouse, but on this occasion we decided to instead go for some of the interesting bar bites with the cocktails.  I will report back on the steak in the future, perhaps after one of their Meet the Butcher events, potentially preceded by a boozy afternoon tea with free flowing champagne, though that may prove to be too much for one day!

We filled the table with delights such as Spiced Crab Cakes with Dill Mayo, Ham Hock Fritters with Mustard, Braised Ox Cheek Buns with Wasabi and Truffle & Old Winchester Chips - all fantastic.  The standout savoury dishes were some lightly battered Fish Fingers with Tartare Sauce (simple but perfectly executed) and the incredible Gillray's Yorkie, a giant Yorkshire pudding with melted Montgomery cheese inside - heaven.

We managed to sneak some desserts from the main menu too, and Gillray's saved the best til last.  We shall return for the Dorset Batter Pudding (with its 30 minute cooking time) but the enormous Seasonal Lemon Meringue Pie with cold ice cream and warm English custard was a very good call.  Even better was the Traditional Sherry Trifle (I told you I'd get to it) which comes with a fun presentation ceremony! Our entertaining waiter brought it over in a sealed jam jar, undid the ribbon, made a channel down one side of the jar with a spoon, and poured the sherry inside in front of our eyes.  And if you can't manage all of it, just pop the top on and take it home!

It's worth heading to Gillray's just for those desserts, but with steaks, all the gin, boozy afternoon tea, top bar snacks, quirky cocktails, iPads, English sparkling wine, great views and a lot of history in the background, there's something for everyone.  Now you just need to find it!