Carousel - Three Six Six - Flour To The People

Time for three overdue pre-Christmas treats, starting with Chef Ollie Templeton's fabulous feast at Carousel. 

Ollie is one of several talented Templetons behind the marvellous merry-go-round that is Carousel, and every now and then he gets to let loose after months of working closely with an eclectic collection of talented chefs. Just before Christmas, he took over the kitchen for three weeks and served up an exciting menu in beautiful surroundings.

One of my favourite London dining rooms

Pre-dinner drinks at Carousel's bar - Will You Be My Clementine Goose?

After a festively spiced clementine cocktail at the bar, we settled down for dinner at one of their stunning long tables. As a bonus, sommelier Matt was pairing our eats with unfamiliar natural wines, starting with Quierciole, Ca' de Noci (2013), a bottled fermented number from Emilia Romagna. This accompanied some moreish but dangerously filling bread and olive oil.

Then came four interesting small bites:

- Grilled Jerusalem Artichokes with Lemon Purée and Sorrel

- Tempura Brussels Sprouts with Mushroom Soy

- Pickled Sardines on Toast with Coriander

- Grilled Shallots on Homemade Manchego Crackers brushed with Butter & Spices

Citrus and butter made several strong appearances throughout the meal. To drink with our starters, a bottle of Anfora Bianco, Lammidia (2014), fermented and aged in clay pots (amphora), divided the table. A summer spent appreciating wild beers on the West Coast of USA meant that I was less surprised by the style.

Grilled Jerusalem artichokes with lemon purée and sorrel

Pickled sardines on toast with coriander

Grilled shallots on homemade manchego crackers brushed with butter & spices

A highlight was a glorious plate of Hokkaido Pumpkin with fish roe, dulse, pistachios and preserved lemon. My Japanese dining companion gave me a quick run down of the differences between squashes of the Hokkaido and Kabocha variety. I'll leave you to have a rummage through Google. Ours was grown in Essex, not quite as romantic as one might hope, but probably more practical.

A glass of Miss Terre, Domaine de la Sénéchalière - a Muscadet from South Britanny - went down very nicely indeed.

Hokkaido pumpkin, fish roe, dulse, preserved lemon and pistachios

My favourite tipple of the night though was the Lady Chasselas, Myl­ène Bru (2014), a white wine made from wild vines with a nose reminiscent of Cantillon. D.H.Lawrence also sprang to mind. This partnered an interesting plate of Cod, Salsify & Bergamot with cod skin, dehydrated miso, and cavolo nero.

Lady Chasselas, Mylène Bru (2014)

An extra course of Grilled Beef Rib, Charred Calcots and Fino Mayonnaise was a real treat. Most beef comes from 12-16 month old cows, but the stuff on our plate was from some wise old 5-6 year olds, and the depth of flavour was magnificent.

Also a hit were the calcots - Catalonian spring onions of sorts. I fully intend to get to Tarragona one day for the Calcotada, the annual harvest festival where "they are grilled over a hot fire, wrapped up in newspaper, served on terra cotta tiles, and eaten, after peeling with bare hands, by dipping them one by one in romesco sauce". Yes please.

To drink, Le Temps Retrouvé Mourvèdre (2013) was the perfect farmy accompaniment - a red wine with more than a whiff of blue cheese about it.

Grilled Beef Rib, Charred Calcots, Fino Mayonnaise

To finish, we were presented with a plate of Clementine and Buttermilk - or rather, buttermilk ice cream, clementine granita and a cleverly crafted buttermilk biscuit crumb, neatly bookending the meal with palate cleansing citrus. 

There was of course a final wine pairing too, Chinati Vergano's "Luli" (2015), a white chinato based on Moscato d'Asti from the Beras apparently. It's a lovely drop, but if you looking to buy me a present (hint hint : birthday is pretty soon), I'd rather have a bottle of their absurdly delicious Americano aperitif that I fell in love with at Original Sin a year or so ago. Thanks.

Clementine & Buttermilk

Clementine & Buttermilk

All in all, a fantastic evening of food and booze. Despite having only been to Carousel twice, it feels like home, and I look forward to many more meals there in the future. Speaking of which, here's what's coming up soon...

23rd-27th February - Olia Hercules - After her unforgettable ‘Wild East’ residency last summer, Olia is back with a Caucasian bang, introducing us to the joys of a traditional Georgian supra (literally, ‘table cloth’). 

In Olia’s own words, “The supra is a f****ing feast - they have a special toastmaster called tamada and it’s basically a 24 hour food and wine party with a sh*t load of toasting and polyphonic singing. It’s so amazing I actually considered moving to Tbilisi when I was there in October. Then I came back to London and came back to my senses.” Georgia’s loss is our gain… 

Olia’s Carousel menu - “mainly Georgian with pan-Caucasian and European twists” - will be paired with natural Georgian wines and wild beers. The perfect accompaniment to knockout, seasonal dishes like dyushbara, kharcho and tkhemali. 

1st-12th March - Rimpei Yoshikawa - With its neon lights, bustling crowds and relentless traffic, Shibuya, Tokyo, isn’t the most obvious place to find a laid back French bistro. But that’s the charm of Pignon, Rimpei Yoshikawa’s bohemian neighbourhood eatery specialising in soulful everyday dishes inspired by his travels through France and Morocco. 

Yoshikawa bid adieu to Tokyo’s fine dining scene and took himself off to Bordeaux five years ago for a change of scenery. It was there that he found his true calling, abandoning haute cuisine and adopting the simpler pleasures of the region’s hearty home-cooking like his own. 

The result? One of Tokyo’s most talked about restaurants and an ever-changing tour de force of surprising and delightful creations like Confit Aromatic Duck with Kinkan and Cumin, his signature Guacamole (coarse-mashed avocado seasoned with lime and jalapeño, topped with thinly sliced octopus and garnished with red onion, tomato and coriander) and his beloved Merguez Sausages with house-made Harissa and Couscous. 

Yoshikawa continues to broaden his horizons, following up a recent co-residency with Beard’s Shin Harakawa at iconic Californian restaurant Chez Panisse with his upcoming trip to Carousel, a first appearance in London for Rimpei and one that’s not to be missed. 

P.S. Don't forget that you can also book in for a very affordable Lunch by Carousel from 12pm-3pm, Tuesday to Saturday. Walk ins are also welcome.

Carousel - www.carousel-london.com

71 Blandford Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 8AB

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Now for some photos from a boozy, risqué evening at Three Six Six cocktail bar on St.John’s Hill. Ella and I went down to try out some pretty outlandish and entertaining cocktails from their Fantasy & Fetish menu that is only served from Sunday to Thursday.

As you can see below, there are some ridiculous props involved. It’s all very playful, and a great source of conversation provided that you’ve brought the right person along! Go easy on the viagra tonic.

More photos on Matt The Tumblr - Set 1 / Set 2

Highlights include:

- Moorish Nights - A beautifully presented cocktail with a yellow pepper savoury edge that emerged from a smoking chamber

- Frijoles Negros - A very drinkable passion fruit number that also involved black bean syrup and popcorn infused Jim Beam, ingeniously served in a plant pot, soil and all.

- Golden Shower - I won’t give too much away… let’s just say that umbrellas are provided.

Owner Eduardo de la Mora is a wonderful host and he makes a mean drink. If nothing on the bonkers Fantasy & Fetish list takes your fancy, there’s also an extensive regular menu smartly split into categories such as Sweet, Salty, Sour, Bitter, Organic and Umami.

Best of all, there's a section dedicated to Negronis. Eduardo’s Negroni featuring Ilegal Mezcal, Cynar and Campari is a treat for bitter enthusiasts, whilst the Colombian Negroni infuses Aperol with coffee beans. A return visit is required for a thorough investigation...

Colombian Negroni - Coffee beans infused Aperol, Colombian Dictador Aged Gin, Lille Rose & OLG Campari Tincture

Eduardo's Negroni - Ilegal Mezcal, Cynar, Campari, Hibiscus Tincture, Lemon, Artichoke

Three Six Six - www.threesixsix.co.uk

126 St.John's Hill, Battersea, SW11 1SL

Fantasy & Festish menu - Sunday-Thursday only

N.B. There is another Three Six Six in Earlsfield with the same drinks menu

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Whilst we're in Battersea, I'll finish up by drawing your attention to one of my favourite local eateries, Flour To The People.

See more brunch photos on Matt The Flickr

Having established themselves as a sourdough bakery and brunch spot early last year (with see-through toasters on every table!), they finally launched an evening sourdough pizza menu in December. They also recently had a rethink about the space and it looks better than ever.

£7.75 will get you a fine example of the Margherita genre with a pleasing bite to it. I chucked some rocket on for good measure. Other winners include the £12 Calzone with ricotta and salami dolce, and a £9.90 English Breakfast Pizza with smoked bacon and egg. We washed them down with local Sambrooks beers that were brewed about 500 metres away. N.B. If you live close enough, you can order their pizzas through Deliveroo if you are feeling lazy! We've already caved several times...

Margherita with Rocket at Flour To The People

Calzone with Ricotta and Salami Dolce at Flour To The People

To finish, their £8 dessert pizza with Nocciolata Crema Di Cacao E Nocciole (translation : posh nutella) is a worthwhile treat, and easily stretches to four people.

Quarter of a dessert pizza with posh nutella and vanilla ice cream

Flour To The People - www.flour2people.com

573 Battersea Park Road, Battersea, SW11 3BJ

Pizzas served from 5pm-10pm, 7 days a week

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London's pizza scene is going from strength to strength at the moment, and most of the new wave are keeping their prices nice and low, earning them a place on London Cheap Eats. Look out for Theo's, Made of Dough, Bona, Bravi Ragazzi, Sacra Cuore, 400 Rabbits and many more in the suburbs.

Theo's in Camberwell

Made of Dough in Brixton

Pop Brixton

Just in case Brixton Village and Market Row weren't already enough of a draw, Pop Brixton's shipping container community campus has roared in to town and seriously upped SW9's food and drink game.

"Pop Brixton will house the next generation of local food and drinks entrepreneurs, retail outlets, workspaces for local business and artists, tech enterprises and a community event space, to be enjoyed by all. We are providing an affordable space for start-ups and small businesses, with 10 units available at 20-50% of market rate."

Before you start picturing Boxpark, this ain't no rectangular rollout full of sellout squares. It's a funky, spacious site with gardens and greenhouses, alleyways and alcoves, and all manner of gastronomic treats.  At ground level, you can find rapid response street food shacks and bars (more on that later), but you need to head upstairs to find Pop Brixton's magical mini-restaurants...

 1. Donostia Social Club - Basque tapas / pintxos bar

You might have spotted Paul & co. of Donostia Social Club in their blue and white Citroen HY van at one of Kerb's street food markets, but this is their first permanent site - and it's a beauty.  They've made full use of their shipping container, with counter dining stretching all the way down to the kitchen at the far end creating a wonderful, communal atmosphere.

I've been to pintxos-paradise San Sebastian (or Donostia in Basque) a couple of times but I'll have to return armed with Paul's top tips soon.  Until then, this is where you'll find me.  Start with piles of £3ish pintxos (snacks) - leftover cocktail sticks help to keep track of your gluttony.  Then move on to DSC's tapas menu, and look out for any specials scribbled on the walls. Wash it all down with fine wines and sherry, or craft beers from Barcelona Beer Company. Here are some of the most tempting dishes:

- Lamb Cutlets, Spring Onions, Confit Broad Beans, Anchovy Butter - £7

- Roasted Quail, Paprika Salt & Aioli - £6.50

- Seared Scallop, Pisto, Green Chilli Sauce, Almonds - £3.50

- Braised Iberico Pork Cheek, Butter Bean Purée, Herb Oil - £6.00

- Smoked Wild Pigeon Breast Salad, Pickled Green Figs & Artichokes - £6.50

- White Chocolate & Red Chilli Mousse, Pistachio Crumb - £5.00

- Leche Frita & Forest Honey - £5.00

Donostia Social Club at Pop Brixton

Richly Deserved's Jack making some tough decisions

Futbol, Tits & Beer. What's Else?

Seared Scallop, Pisto, Green Chilli Sauce & Almonds

Lam Cutlets, Spring Onions, Confit Broad Beans, Anchovy Butter

It's casual, fun, affordable, and bloody tasty. Donostia Social Club is one of the big hits of the year for me - up there with Bao and Blacklock.

Mon-Fri : 1pm -10pm, Sat : 12pm - 10pm & Sun : 12pm - 6pm

www.donostiasocialclub.co.uk

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2. Hook Brixton - not traditional fish & chips

Hook's unconventional fish & chips have been getting rave reviews ever since they set up shop in Camden via Dublin and Brussels back in January.  You can read my write-up here for all the details as their second site in Brixton is more of the same - and that's a good thing.  

You can't really go wrong with their short & simple menu of twisted classics, but the special is always worth a look (think Ethiopian Berbere Spiced Pollock with Sweet Potato Ketchup, or Guinness & Squid Ink Haddock with an Oyster & Sorrel Sauce).  Each fancy fish comes with a generous portion of moreish chips and one of their special sauces (e.g. chipotle / garlic truffle / basil & chilli) that threaten to steal the show - get a load for the table and don't look back.  You'll also want their minted mushy peas and a side of sea spaghetti & samphire.  Bring stretchy pants.

Always wear a helmet for fish & chips

Literally pint-sized can of Rogue American Amber Ale (all the way from Oregon)

Jamaican Jerk Panko Hake with Chipotle Sauce

It's an absolute steal for a tenner - Barry & Simon are on to something with Hook, and I'm sure there'll be another site or two before the end of the year.  Their Brixton box is a no frills affair, much like Sutton & Sons in Boxpark, but it's all you need - grab an outdoor table if it's sunny to soak up the Pop Brixton atmosphere. Highly recommended.

www.hookrestaurants.com

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3. Kricket - Indian Small Plates & Cocktails

Unlike Donostia Social Club, Hook and Zoe's Ghana Kitchen, Kricket is a brand new restaurant with no popups or street food appearances to its name.  Chef Will Bowlby (Cinnamon Kitchen) and business partner Rik Campbell have brought a bit of Mumbai to Brixton with their seasonal small plates and booze.  To avoid making any tough decisions you should probably just order everything as we did:

- Bhel Puri - Raw Mango, Sev, Tamarind, Yogurt - £4

- Samphire Pakoras - Wild Garlic Mayonnaise, Date & Tamarind Chutney - £5

- Kadai Spiced Padron Peppers - Pachadi, Crispy Onions - £5

- Keralan Fried Chicken - Curry Leaf Mayonnaise, Pickled Mouli - £6

- Pork belly -  Tamarind, Apple & Fennel Raita - £6

- Hake - Malai Sauce, Samphire - £8

- Vindaloo Bavette - Coriander, Cassava Chips, Burnt Onion - £8

- Grilled Lamb Fillet - Black Stone Flower, Smoked Paprika Raita - £8

- Gulab Jamum - Carom Seed Crumble, Clotted Cream Ice Cream - £4

Bhel Puri - Raw Mango, Sev, Tamarind, Yogurt

Bhel Puri - Raw Mango, Sev, Tamarind, Yogurt

Kadai Spiced Padron Peppers - Pachadi, Crispy Onions

Grilled Lamb Fillet - Black Stone Flower, Smoked Paprika Raita

Ali tackling the Grilled Lamb Fillet - 

If you only have space for a couple of dishes, don't miss the Bhel Puri, the Vindaloo Bavette and the outstanding Grilled Lamb Fillet.  

To drink, there's an intriguing quartet of cocktails to get through with Indian twists such as Old Naranji (Cardamom Bourbon, Marmalade, Orange) and Tiki Challo (Carom Vodka, Pear Brandy, Fennel).

www.kricket.co.uk

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4. Zoe's Ghana Kitchen - Ghanaian small plates

I haven't yet eaten in Zoe Adjonyoh's cosy container, but I did devour several plates of her contemporary take on traditional Ghanaian food when she popped up at The King & Co. in April (read full post here). Here's what Zoe has to say about her first permanent site:

“I'm so excited to be opening our first fixed dining space in Brixton, south of the river and close to where I grew up. We hope to become part of Brixton’s natural buzz and vibrancy, and to build upon this in coming years while spreading the love for modern Ghanaian cuisine!”

Expect to find the likes of Okra Tempura with Shiso Hot Sauce, Red Red Beans with Kelewele Plantain Chips and fiery Jollof Rice as well as Zoe's signature West African Peanut Butter Stew.

zoesghanakitchen.co.uk

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...and that's just upstairs.

Back on the ground floor, you've got 10+ more food options, some of which you may recognise from London's street food scene.  

* Takes deep breath * - There's Mama's Jerk Station (Caribbean street food), Miss P's Barbecue (Atlanta BBQ), Baba G's (Bhangra burgers), Made of Dough (Pizza Napoletana), Maria Sabina (Mexican kitchen), KOI Ramen (generous ramen pots), Kyonocho (Sushi and tea), Viet Box (Vietnamese salads), World of Wurst (sausage specialists), L'Amuse Bouche (Crepes), Supercute (Macarons & more), and Yumitub (Street Thai ice cream).

Many of these are packed into a bustling central alleyway, and you'll find yourself stopping at each stand on your way through.  Viet Box's décor is particularly striking, as is Made of Dough's pizza oven. Then World of Wurst have got draught German beers to lure you in; and you'll definitely get stuck watching Yumitub's bonkers (though painfully slow!) approach to creating ice cream from scratch using -30 degrees C cold plates, oreos and an ice scraper - 3 minutes is the record...

On the booze front, head for Brixton Port Authority for London beers, small batch spirits and organic wine, or to The New Zealand Cellar for a wider choice of vino without markups that you can drink anywhere around Pop Brixton.  There's also the Homegrown juice bar that occasionally falls off the wagon and serves up Bloody Marys and Espresso Martinis.  Sorted.

Maria Sabina pinata

Maria Sabina pinata

Mama's Jerk Station

Ali demolishing a Miss P's BBQ brisket bun

Brisket Bun from Miss P's Atlanta BBQ

Supercute Macarons

Yumitub - mad scientist Thai ice cream

It's not all about the food and drink at Pop Brixton, though obviously that's what I'm most interested in.  You've also got quirky shops (Queen of the Harpies, Make Do and Mend), gigs, film screenings, and art exhibits to keep you busy, and there's a whole lot more to come with large event, gallery and work spaces scheduled to open soon.

It may seem far off now, but Pop Brixton supposedly only have the site until October 2017, so don't waste any more time.  Hopefully it will be around for a lot longer than that though - Pop Brixton is an unmissable addition to our fine city's food and drink scene and another calling card for South West London. 

N.B. Most places only accept cash at the moment, though that does include Brixton Pounds.

Sunday-Wednesday: 9am - 11pm // Thursday-Saturday: 9am - midnight

49 Brixton Station Road, London, SW9 8PQ

Pop Brixton - www.popbrixton.org