Much like a standard Matt The List outing, this post starts with good foodie intentions but soon careers off down a boozier path. Luckily, Ohayo is there at the end of it all to save the day.
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Peruvian-popup-turned-permanent Senor Ceviche have recently added new dishes (and updated a few older ones) having settled in to their colourful Barranco-inspired home in the increasingly wonderful Kingly Court. It was a first visit for Matt The List, so it was all new to me!
The fabulous Fabrizia got straight to the Pisco point as we sat down, pointing us towards their trademark sours amongst other concoctions. The cocktail list threatens to be too sweet throughout, but all four of our drinks were very well balanced, not least the Barranco Babe (1615 Pisco, Passion Fruit Purée, Vanilla Syrup, Basil, Lime Juice, Egg White & Burnt Angostura) which could have been awful in the wrong hands.
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| Uncle Pastuzo - 1615 Pisco, Aperol, Marmalade, Pink Grapefruit Juice, Lemon Juice & Egg White |
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| Mamacita - El Jimador Tequila, Cointreau, Lime Juice, Agave Syrup, Fresh Jalapeno |
Soon, we were overrun by plates. Arriving first, Jalea Mixto (Tempura Baby Squid, Prawns & Cod with Pickled Jalapeno Mayo) was worth ordering just for the sauce - hold on to that bowl.
Two ceviche plates appeared soon after - The Spaniard (Sea Bream & King Prawn Ceviche with Tomato & Brown Crab Tiger's Milk, Red Onion, Coriander, Plantain & Crispy Chorizo) and Senor Ceviche himself (Sea Bream & Octopus Ceviche with Aji Amarillo Tiger's Milk, Sweet Potato Puree, Avocado & Tempura Baby Squid). The Spaniard edged it thanks to some subtle smokiness, but both are fine examples of the genre.
Mr Miyagi (Salmon Tiradito with Nikkei Tiger's Milk, Pomegranate, Purple Shiso & Salmon Scratchings) sounds like a winner but will have to wait for a second visit.
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| The Spaniard - Sea Bream & King Prawn Ceviche with Tomato & Brown Crab Tiger's Milk, Red Onion, Coriander, Plantain & Crispy Chorizo |
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| Senor Ceviche - Sea Bream & Octopus Ceviche with Aji Amarillo Tiger's Milk, Sweet Potato Puree, Avocado & Tempura Baby Squid |
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| Jalea Mixto - Tempura Baby Squid, Prawns & Cod with Pickled Jalapeno Mayo |
Peruvian Barbecue plates followed, starting with a moreish Flat Iron Steak with Aji Limo & Chimmichurri - one not to miss. The same goes for the Anticucho de Corazón de Res - Grilled Beef Heart Skewers with Sweet Potato Mayonnaise, Aji Panca, Bojita Olives & Mint. If that sounds too adventurous, go for some Pachamanca Pork Ribs with sticky Nikkei BBQ sauce and peanuts. Yum yum.
Despite being stuffed, Fabrizia somehow talked me in to a Passion Fruit Posset palate cleanser. It's sharp and fresh, and large enough to share. Alternatively, you could finish off with their Pisco-based Lima Espresso Martini.
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| Flat Iron Steak with Aji Limo & Chimmichurri |
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| Anticucho de Corazón de Res - Grilled Beef Heart Skewers with Sweet Potato Mayonnaise, Aji Panca, Bojita Olives & Mint |
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| Passion Fruit Posset |
There's plenty to enjoy at Senor Ceviche, both from the bar and the open kitchen, and it won't break the bank (depending on how many £8 cocktails you put away). Go with a group and work your way through the whole menu.
Mon–Thu: 12pm–12am, Fri-Sat: 12pm-12.30am, Sun: 12pm-11am
1st Floor, Kingly Court, London, W1B 5PW
Senor Ceviche - senor-ceviche.com
Now for an update on two of my favourite bars - Merchant House and Bermondsey Arts Club.
First up, the team at Merchant House in Bank have launched a stylish Summer Spritz Bar in their ground floor space that also doubles as a rare & vintage spirits shop.
According to Nate, Lewis & co., it will be open "from midnight to sundown, Tuesday through Friday". The magnificent and ever so slightly rowdy Carey is in charge, serving up very affordable £5 aperitivo cocktails made with the finest booze to a live jazz soundtrack. There won't be a better Negroni for a fiver in London, though you can always splash out on a £20 Timeless Negroni made with vintage bottles if you are feeling fancy.
Other drinks include Il Bacio (Strawberry, Passionfruit, Fernet), Sbagliato (Vermouth, Campari, Fizz) and a Duppy Share Rum Punch (check out their Spirit Social events). You'll find me at the bar with an Americano (Cocchi di Torino, Campari, Soda) trying to convince Carey to open up the premium bottles.
In a city with increasingly overpriced food and drink, this is a real win for Londoners and an absolutely essential Summer stop.
Summer Spritz Bar at Merchant House - www.merchanthouselondon.com
Open from Midday - Sundown, Tue - Fri, throughout the Summer
13 Well Court, Off Bow Lane, London, EC4M 9DN
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In other bar news, basement boozer Bermondsey Arts Club has just released a new Summer cocktail list. It's been created by two of my favourite bartenders, Milo Occhipinti & Jake Johari, who recently stepped up to a BAC management role (i.e. they do less work, wear fancier clothes and control the iPod - Snarky Puppy all the way).
It's a 4x4 menu of classic Aperitif, Straight-Up, Short and Long drinks with tweaks and twists such as their subtle Boulevardier (Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, Campari) with coffee beans (mostly on the nose). Planter's Punch is another winner, with nutmeg and Bittermens 'Elemakule Tiki bitters elevating the rum and lime classic.
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| Boulevardier - Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, Campari, Coffee Beans |
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| Planter's Punch - Dark Rum, Lime, Nutmeg, Tiki Bitters |
Here's a few words on the new list from Milo:
"Bizarre and quirky mixology is dead and buried - classic drinks that withstood the test of time are making a comeback. Classic drinks with classic twists - that's what we've gone for, from the Sidecar made with a New Orleans blend of Cognac and Rye, to the Paloma with Jalapeño Bitters. You'll also spot my Italian roots in the Rossini, Select Spritzer, Mi-To & co., showcasing old school Italian aperitifs and bitters that our industry was built upon.
"We are paying tribute to the legends of the past - those who started mixing drinks a hundred years ago when bartending meant pouring whisk(e)y. We salute them with this menu, because there is no need to invent, just to remember. As we like to say, we are standing on the shoulders of giants."
Bermondsey Arts Club - bermondseyartsclub.co.uk
Tuesday - Saturday - 6pm - 2am
Former Public Conveniences
102A Tower Bridge Road
London SE1 4TP
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P.S. Check out Milo's nutty "Caffe Corretto" bartending videos on YouTube here
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After all that booze, we should probably talk about hangovers. Or rather, hangover prevention. Let me introduce you to Ohayo.
Ohayo ("good morning" in Japanese) is a cheeky new bottled beverage (£3 a pop) packed full of B vitamins, electrolytes and other clever things that you need for rehydration and restoration after a night on the sauce.
For it to work, it should be the last drink of the night, giving the body a night's sleep to reabsorb the essentials. Remembering to use it is harder said than done of course, depending on how much absinthe and overproof rum you've consumed. Thankfully, Ohayo have got you covered with a glow-in-the-dark bottle and a bright, removable sticker.
I put it to work in Paris after a mezcal-heavy bar crawl around Pigalle and woke up feeling considerably fresher than everyone else. If you need more convincing, check out these articles:
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"The Holy Grail of an elixir to cure hangovers could be here" - Bar Magazine
"Happier Morning After" - Imbibe Magazine
"The Lowdown : Ohayo" - The Times
"Hair of the Gods" - Le Cool
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You can now buy Ohayo online here in packs of 3, 6 or 12 bottles.
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