Ben Spalding at The Laundry - Original Sin

Wednesday 4th February - Today on the blog: How about some food followed by booze in East London? Because I never write about that.

The Laundry bar and restaurant in London Fields has pinned down popular chef Ben Spalding (Roganic, John Salt, Stripped Back) for a month long residency until 1st March.  Alongside exciting Daytime and Dinner A La Carte menus, there are Tasting Menus on Fridays & Saturdays (4 courses for £32, 7 courses for £49), and special Sunday Roasts.

We popped in early during the soft launch for a look at the evening menu.  There was a great buzz about the room, which quickly filled up with hungry Hackney locals. 

The kitchen is fully open, rather than just a hatch that you can see through, allowing Ben to pop out for a quick hello every now and then.  It would make a great site for a cooking workshop.

Before the starters arrived, we were treated to some sticky, fried Korean chicken pieces, and a generous portion of bread, with butter presented on a Himalayan salt board.  As at The Dairy and The Manor, a couple of amuse bouches and some serious sourdough (or other) are usually good signs of things to come.

Two super starters kept that trend going, though £9 was on the steep side for each.  

- Poached and roasted pink fir potatoes, apricot creme fraiche, sprout leaves, hotdog onions and "Holy Fuck" sauce 

- Fried and runny Burford Brown egg, toasted cashews, medjool dates, 14 month old kimchi, fennel, raw smoked honey 

Ben is known for his inventiveness (see No Rules), and there's plenty on show here.  He masterfully pulls it all together, despite an array of ingredients that could be at odds.  Both plates come highly recommended.

Main courses are an eclectic bunch, with the likes of Lamb Shoulder Ragu, Seaweed Ramen and Pork Belly with Veg all making an appearance.  We opted for two wildly different dishes:

- Black Leg Chicken Broth, Crispy Skin, Flaked Thigh & Breast, Sand Carrot String, and Rice Noodles

- Lasagne of Portland white crab, charred and sweetened Sicilian blood oranges, langoustine sauce flavoured with tarragon

The cutely presented lasagne was full of flavour and a great partner to zingy blood oranges, though we felt a little more pasta would have gone a long way.  The chicken ramen was something else. My lingering January cold was attacked on all fronts by a generous, comforting bowl of noodle soup, with a rich broth that Bone Daddies & Kanada-Ya would be proud of.  Don't miss it.

And to finish off a fun meal, we ordered two playful desserts:

- Warm, aerated malt loaf, crispy sweet pastry, creme fraiche ice cream, burnt caramel ice cream

- Victoria Sponge Cake - a different way...

Both puddings were served in almost liquid form, which worked better for the aerated malt loaf.  I'm not really a fan of Victoria Sponge Cake, so I'm not really sure what I was hoping for, but this wasn't it, especially for £9 (which may have changed by now).  The malt soup was an enjoyable little bowl with texture and colour coming from the crispy sweet pastry topping, but again £8 is a stretch. Hopefully some more solid desserts along the lines of Ben's Sweet Potato Brownie with Stem Ginger Icing, Frozen Cherry and Grated White Chocolate will fill out this section.

Warm, Aerated Malt Loaf, Crispy Sweet Pastry, Creme Fraiche and Burnt Caramel Ice Creams

Deconstructed Victoria Sponge Cake

There's a cracking wine list to pair with the food, and a strong cocktail list featuring the likes of Penicillin, Tequila Old Fashioned, and the inviting Balthazar (Rosemary infused Mezcal, Cynar, Antica Formula).

You've only got a few weeks to enjoy Ben's exciting and imaginative cooking, so stop reading this and book a table.

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For post dinner drinks, we hopped on a bus to Stoke Newington for a second look at the magnificent Original Sin.  I briefly mentioned this Happiness Forgets sequel at the end of 2014 during it's quiet soft launch, but now it's time to shout about it.

Pouring Ribbons, Billy Sunday, Attaboy, Candelaria, Weather Up, Peg & Patriot, Black Hoof, and Dead Rabbit - budge up and make some room.

Alistair Burgess & co. have created one of London's most beautiful bars.  The never-ending, candlelit bar top (with always appreciated coat hooks) sits opposite a long row of cosy booths, encouraging friendly chat between all.  At one end of the room, a moodily lit pool table cries out to be photographed.  See more than a few attempts here - Facebook photo set.

N.B. Original Sin is closed on Mondays

Outstanding cocktails from some of London's finest bartenders will only set you back £7-8. Start with a refreshing Sea Fizz (Mezcal, Cachaca, Lemon, Agave, Salt, Mint and Soda), before getting boozy with a Red Hook (Rye Whiskey, Maraschino, Punt e Mes) or a Handy Dandy (Rye Whiskey, Apple Brandy, Lemon, Grenadine).

Then head over to the pool table with something from the £7 anti-G&T Highballs list.  You'll find me with a 6 Ball (Kamm & Sons, Laphroaig, Lemon, Ginger Ale) but I can also recommend the Grande Bellezza (Cynar, Manzanilla, Lemon, Cane Syrup topped with Mediterranean Tonic) and the Rattle Snake (Calvados, Cyder Vinegar, Lemon, Maple Syrup topped with Tonic).

But don't stop there.  Any bar worth its salt excels itself when you go off menu, and Tara Garnell (Bar Manager) was all over it on our visit.  First there was the moreish Manhattan twist with nutty Amontillado Sherry in place of Sweet Vermouth. A Clover Club-esque Pink Lady and a Calvados Old Fashioned followed, interspersed with some tasters of glorious Chinato Vergano Americano. 

After a week of fighting off a cold with Milk & Honey Penicillins, Tara delivered the finishing blow with a Jimador's Remedy - a twist on the Sam Ross classic with smoky mezcal and tequila replacing Islay whisky and scotch.

Original Sin is the real deal.  Never have I been more tempted to up sticks and move to Stoke Newington.  When The Good Egg arrives later this year, that might just do it.  In case my photos didn't do it justice, here are some truly magnificent shots from the supremely talented Addie Chinn:

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Photo Credit : Addie Chinn

Stokey Bears - Original Sin - Pisco Embassy - Rosa's Thai Café

Today on the blog - Matt The Trek.  No, not a William Shatner skit, rather a mission to Stoke Newington : The Final Frontier.  Men (and women) have boldly gone there before, some even live there. 

And it's a right schlep from Battersea.

But when Burger Bear Tom and Alastair Burgess & co. from Happiness Forgets open up new spots, not only in the same postcode but in the same building in Stokey, I pipe down, pack an overnight bag and get out CityMapper.

Tuesday 9th December - You may have spotted Tom Reaney banging out burgers, beats and bacon jam as Burger Bear on the London street food scene, at Red Gallery, or at the Old Nun's Head in SE15 (Mon, Tue, Sat). 

Earlier this year, Tom ran a successful Kickstarter campaign to fund Burger Bear HQ, a diner made out of two shipping containers that I'm sure we'll hear more on soon.  But whilst we wait for that to appear, you are most likely to spot him at the adorably named Stokey Bears, a new collaboration with Bear Hug Brewing on Stoke Newington Road.

Before we get to the food - that menu design.  It's part Tiki Bar, part Family Guy, and I love it. Kids will love it too, though their parents might not when they spot the Ribman's Holy Fuck Sauce in the Angry Bear burger.  Beefdogs will soon be joining Hot Wings on the menu, but you've got to go for a burger, right?

Grizzly Bear is the obvious choice.  Alternatively, double up with a Greedy Bear, go veggie with the Koala Bear or take on the mysterious Triple Threat.   Fries and onion rings arrive in massive portions so order wisely, and possibly go for "Angry" or "Chilli" fries for a bit of variety.

I'll be a Grizzly Bear man every time.  A meaty cheeseburger with double oak smoked bacon and that bacon jam you've been hearing about.  Be sure to buy a jar to take home.  Or go all out and swing by Flock & Herd in Peckham for their 100% Sussex beef too. 

The look you get if you ask for a bite...

To drink, it's got to be some Bear Hug Brewing beer, especially as each one you knock back saves a bit of the rainforest.  I'm a fan of the Hibernation IPA myself, but the Bruno Lager is very drinkable and a strong companion for the burgers.  Feeling soft? There's a brilliant Square Root London soda dispenser (unlimited refills!) by the bar.  They look after you at Stokey Bears.

By the way... There's one more weekend left of Square Root's "WTF Why Not" collaboration with Tongue'N'Cheek at the Square Root Soda Works on Amhurst Road.  More details here.

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I feel like I've forgotten something? Oh yeah, that's it.  The boys from Happiness Forgets (you know, the 12th best bar in the world this year) have opened a neighbourhood cocktail bar called Original Sin below Stokey Bears, and they've only gone and put a pool table in it.  It's all coming together...

They are in a soft launch of sorts at the moment, so this is just a quick preview.  I'll report back properly in January once everything is in place.  I can tell you now though that it's a stunning joint, with inviting booths, attractive lighting, and a glorious bar that stretches as far as the eye can see.

One drink that is sure to survive the cut is Sea City, an outstanding Mezcal & Cachaca based fizz.  It's one of several £8 signature serves that sit alongside £7 Highballs (including a rousing Laphroaig & Kamm & Sons concoction) designed to tempt punters away from ordering a G&T every time.  Beers from the likes of Pressure Drop, Beavertown and Hammerton fill the fridges.  

And that's all you are getting for now.  The atmosphere & booze is great, what more do you need to know?

P.S. It's winner stays on at the pool table and we haven't lost yet. See you there.

N.B. Original Sin will be closed from 22nd December to 2nd January. 

Thanks to Helena for stealing my camera and taking some great shots whilst Ella & I defeated various London bartenders.  You can see the full set of photos on Matt The List : Facebook.

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That Stokey evening actually started in Islington - breaking up the journey and all that.  We dropped in to Comedor Grill & Bar on Upper Street for some pre-burger cocktails at Pisco Embassy, a new late night pop-up pisco bar that takes over the restaurant every Friday and Saturday from 12am-5am. It doesn't have to be Slim Jim's Liquor Store every time now.

Pisco, if you didn't know, is a grape brandy made in Chile & Peru, though it can be wildly different depending on where you get it.  The Peruvians are purists whilst the Chileans like to mature and sometimes dilute their pisco before bottling.

Pisco Sour is the most well known use of it over here, and Pisco Embassy's version is heavy on the lime, with equal parts of Pisco & Lime Juice when many would keep it at less than a 2:1 ratio even. This theme continues down the menu, with most drinks too sweet for my tastes, or not strong enough, but they may well appeal to the 12am-5am Islington crowd.  I'm sure you could get Jose to whip you up something specific if need be too.

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A week earlier, I was a few doors down from Pisco Embassy...

Tuesday 2nd December - Whilst most foodies (me included) are raving about the arrival of Thai hotspots Som Saa and Smoking Goat, Rosa's Thai Café are quietly taking over London having just opened their sixth site in Angel.

Spitalfields is where it all began in 2008 for the lovely Saiphin and her family. Two Soho sites, Westfield & Chelsea followed before they arrived in Islington last week.

Rosa's Thai Café in Angel

The menu is extensive but easy to navigate. It's worth noting that there are fewer dishes available at lunch. Be sure to grab some starters and salads. Fish Cakes with Crushed Peanuts & Sweet Chilli Sauce (Thod Mun Pla) hit the spot, and moreish Spicy Pork Patties (Lab Tod) come attached to colourful rice cakes. A zingy Pork Neck Salad was attractively wrapped in lettuce leaves.

Fish Cakes with Crushed Peanuts & Sweet Chillia Sauce - Thod Mun Pla

Spicy Pork Patties - Lab Tod

You can't go wrong with the generous portions of Pad Thai or Rosa's Fried Rice, but you can also push the boat out a little with the likes of Soft Shell Crab, Black Pepper Highland Venison, Pumpkin Red Curry and Broccoli in Oyster Sauce. I've heard rumours that the Pineapple Fried Rice is served in a large, hand-carved pineapple vessel.

Rosa's Fried Rice

Pork Neck Salad

I wouldn't be surprised to see 10 or more of them this time next year. A book is already on the way, set for a February release. Time to jump on board Rosa's train. You'll leave satisfied with plenty of money in hand for a return trip. 

Wine and cocktails at Rosa's Thai Café in Angel