Kansas Smitty's Bar

Whilst I've loved powering through my enormous London food, drink and fun to-do list since early 2013, my favourite posts are usually related to three ongoing stories:

- Paul & Jack (Anspach & Hobday) graduating from homebrewers to Bermondsey pros

- Joel Braham (The Good Egg) getting closer to his dream of opening a bricks and mortar restaurant

- The continued rise of the incredibly talented Kansas Smitty's on the London scene

Coincidentally, the first two also have musical backgrounds which ties this all together nicely. I first met Blues Brothers Banned trumpeter turned chef Joel on a jazz band tour to Rotterdam; and Paul & Jack may not have become Anspach & Hobday had they found success with Great Dover Street Productions - bit of a reach that one. Anyway, today I'm here to talk about Kansas Smitty's. 

"Putting the danger back in jazz"

I first become aware of them early last year after meeting band leader Giacomo Smith (sax / clarinet) at a gig at Battersea's hidden gem Le Quecumbar. Since then, I've seen them countless times, both as Smitty's Big Four and the full House Band, all over London, from The Dolls House to Ronnie Scott's.

"While the House Band draws its main inspiration from Count Basie’s hard swinging late night jam sessions in 1930s Kansas City, the Big Four is interested in the music of Sidney Bechet and the upbeat swing of New Orleans."

No two shows are ever the same, though the music making is always exceptional.  If there's a tighter swing band currently playing on the London circuit, I'd like to hear them.  Mad Mardi Gras gigs at The Vaults have been known to end with an impromptu victory lap around Waterloo Station, and alongside all of the live shows, an LP has been recorded and is awaiting release later this year.  But the Smitty's have always had their eyes on a bigger prize - their own bar.  

A magical, immersive Backyard BBQ event in Dalston last April proved that they were all over it on the Southern States food & drink front too, and a year later they finally unveiled the Kansas Smitty's Bar underneath Off Broadway on Broadway Market.

Their stripped back basement bar is now open for live jazz and juleps from Tuesday-Sunday, 6pm-midnight, with special "Basement Tapes" ticketed gigs every Wednesday featuring a different Smitty. You can't go wrong, from trumpeter & vocalist "Sweet" Pete Horsfall ("a cross between Billie Holiday and Tony Bennet") to multi-talented, dynamic percussionist Pedro Segundo.

Giacomo & Jack - Gentlemen of Jazz

Joe Webb's Piano

Dave Archer's Gibson

Dave Archer's Gibson

Now these juleps. In quite a coup, Milk & Honey bartender Sean Fennelly was brought in to set things in motion, and he's organised an 8-strong £8 julep jamboree ranging from the Smitty's Julep (Bourbon, Amaro Bitters, Raisin, Peach, Cassia Bark & Mint) to the Jesuit's Bark Julep (Rum, Clove, Pimento, Lime and Grapefruit Peel, Quinine Cordial & Mint).

The booze & botanicals are pre-mixed and left to blend in traditional julep fashion, before being poured over fresh mint and ice.  Bartenders just need to "clap that mint" first and your drink is good to go.

There's something for everyone on the list, but I'd recommend the Morning Joe-lep (Bourbon, Coffee Bean, Stem Ginger, Cardamom, Cocoa Nibs & Bitter Orange Marmalade) or the Sleepytime Julep (Scotch Whisky, Chamomile, Pink Peppercorn, Raspberry, Lemon Peel & Mint).  

If you want to save a few coins, you can stick to house wine and beers (currently New Orleans Dixie Beer with more local brews on the way).  Food is restricted to Giacomo's nuts at the moment, and that's all I'm going to say about that.

Most importantly though, it's a great venue for live music, with excellent acoustics and no need for amplification; and crucially, it means I always know where to go if I need a Kansas Smitty's fix, and so do you.  Get down there and support some of London's finest musicians, and don't forget your dancing shoes!

Tuba-man Theon Cross

Giacomo & "Sweet" Pete on the front line

Kansas Smitty's Bar is open 6pm-midnight, Tues - Sun, 63-65 Broadway Market, E8 4PH

Click here to book tickets for Wednesday night "Basement Tapes" gigs

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Summer Tales / Indian Ocean Islands Menu at Babur / 2010 Masterchef Winner Dhruv Baker at The Jolly Gardeners / Park Road Kitchen / Fu Manchu

John Doe - Street Feast Hawker House

Dry January is over!  This is of course bad news to those of us who have enjoyed visiting quiet and peaceful pubs and bars in your absence, but welcome back to civilisation the rest of you.  If you are looking for food & drink in equal quantity and quality, then look no further...

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Saturday 31st January - First up, a fantastic restaurant in West London that is truly worth the trek. John Doe (on fast improving Golborne Road) specialises in "Wild British produce, cooked over wood and charcoal".

We were first through the doors for lunch at 12.15 and settled on a table rather than up at the counter. Staff were wandering around singing along to an eclectic soundtrack ranging from Chesney Hawkes to Foo Fighters, reminding me of the equally lively Palomar but with some space to move your elbows.  

The smell of sherry vinegar filled the air, making it hard to pick from a mouth-watering menu full of goodies.  Ash roasted leeks, smoked roe tartar, and confit duck leg are just a few of the dishes that we had to leave behind.

Picking a drink is no easy task either.  A John Doe Negroni with Portobello Gin, Rosehip and Dry Vermouth called to me, but I couldn't resist dipping in to the fine beer list.  I opted for two Wild Beer Co. brews, starting with a dark and sour 7% Modus Operandi on tap, followed by an interesting 3.6% Sourdough bottle - both outstanding and in keeping with John Doe's wild ways.  There were also three Thornbridge taps, plus more bottles from Wild Beer Co., Siren, Freedom, Bad Seed, Bear Hug, Harviestoun and Otley Brewing.  Impressive stuff.

A complimentary plate of moreish Venison & Goat Charcuterie made its way over to ease us in to a gamey mood.  This was swiftly followed by our outstanding starters:

Mum The List - Stuffed Mackerel, Pomegranate, Cauliflower Cous Cous & Harissa

Dad The List - Seared Duck Hearts, Sherry Vinegar & Parsley

Matt The List - Octopus, Chickpeas, Aioli

Mum The List probably edged it with her generous mezze-style plate including standout Cauliflower Cous Cous, though I implore you to try the Duck Hearts if the thought scares you.  That sherry vinegar was certainly put to good use.  My off-menu special of Octopus was worth arriving early for - ask nicely and you shall receive.

Venison & Goat Charcuterie

Octopus, Chickpeas, Aioli

Stuffed Mackerel, Pomegranate, Cauliflower Cous Cous & Harissa

Seared Duck Hearts, Sherry Vinegar & Parsley

Three of the eight main courses on offer showcase their venison skills, making use of wild Roe Doe from the Cotswolds on this occasion.  We nearly got the full house:

Mum The List - Roe Doe Haunch Steak, Bone Marrow, Watercress Salad & Fries

Dad The List - Venison, Mutton & Bone Marrow Sausages, Choucroute & Mustard Sauce

Matt The List - Roasted Bacon, Slow Baked Brown Beans, Apple & Horseradish

Plus some Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes, and Chicory, Blood Orange and Hazelnut Salad to share.

Three more winners, and a zingy side salad to boot.  The Roe Doe Haunch Steak didn't come across particularly gamey, but there was no hiding the venison in the sausages (always a hard dish to present attractively!).  And that Bone Marrow... look at it! Then devour it.  My Roasted Bacon was also a delight, reminiscent of a glorious smokey BBQ meal at Big Crow in Toronto.  

If none of those take your fancy, you might be interested in the Beer Butt Partridge with Stinking Bishop Mac & Cheese, Greens and Bacon - a sight to behold with a small Schweppes Tonic Water can (filled with beer) shoved where the sun don't shine.  Only in-flight bars and hotels have beers that tiny. 

Roe Doe Haunch Steak, Bone Marrow, Watercress Salad and Fries

Beer Butt Partridge, Stinking Bishop Mac & Cheese, Greens & Bacon

To finish:

Mum The List - Valrhona Chocolate Terrine with Pistachio Cream

Dad The List - Valhrona Chocolate Terrine with Pistachio Cream

Matt The List - Valrohna Chocolate Terrine with Pistachio Cream

Pick your favourite spelling, it's wrong on almost every menu I come across. Answer below.

Whilst the rich slab of chocolate was popular all round, we did feel that this part of the menu needed some more variety.  Two Valrhona (hint hint) choices, Rice Pudding and a Cheese Plate didn't set the heart racing in the same way that the savoury selection process did.

Valrhona Chocolate Terrine with Pistachio Cream

Valrhona Chocolate Terrine with Pistachio Cream

Ladbroke Grove locals have got a real winner here, and due to its awkward location, they can probably expect to have first dibs for a while yet.  That said, Golborne Road is on its way up and the rest of London is starting to take notice, with the likes of Snaps & Rye and West Thirty Six opening recently.

Our excellent lunch was raised to another level by the charming, witty and helpful staff who brought smiles (and delicious grub) to every table.  Best meal of 2015 so far.

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Post lunch, I zoomed over to East London to kill some time for a few hours before the opening of Street Feast.  A frustrating wait at the problematic Draughts (sort out that system) was soon forgotten with a Signature Brew Backstage IPA at the candlelit Trip Kitchen next door which looked after us for the rest of the afternoon.

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Hawker House is back! Street Feast have finally opened their indoor food & booze Winter hangout in a new site opposite their old Merchant Yard haunt.  Set over three floors filled with the now customary funky lights, you can find London's finest street food traders, and six bars. SIX.  

Level 1 : Rotary Bar + 3 traders

Level 2 : Craft Beer Bar // Kamm & Sons Spritz Bar + 3 traders

Level 3 : Milk & Honey Mercury Lounge // Wine Bar // Whisky Bar + 1 trader

Considering that there are six (SIX) bars, seven street food traders seemed a little light to me, and by 9pm on Saturday, it was pretty hard to get near the stalls.  Ideally there would be closer to ten traders on rotation but I guess space is an issue.  Also, the three floor system leads to carnage on the stairs and one-in one-out queues between rooms, leaving you stranded with someone else's tempting food in hand.  This doesn't compare well to the sprawling Dalston Yard

Anyway, get there early, get stuck in to the food, and then settle on the stunning top floor.  After sharing some top notch sliders from Sambal Shiok and Boom Burger, I spent the rest of the evening in the company of the Whisky Bar and the Milk & Honey Mercury Lounge.  I was so distracted by Penicillins (invented by Sam Ross at Milk & Honey New York) that I barely took any photos this time around.  I highly recommend taking a look at Chris Coulson's atmospheric photos here.

Did I mention that you can play WHISKY ROULETTE? £8 gets you a spin and a dram, most of which are priced above £8 usually with the exception of a couple of £7 treats including the Peat Monster, so you can't go far wrong.  If you land on a 0, rather than the house winning, you get an entire bottle of whisky to take home! There were eight winners on the first weekend...

Sambal Shiok Sliders - Beef Rendang and Chicken Satay

Whisky Roulette

Whisky Roulette

Milk & Honey Penicillin - Scotch, Peat, Honey, Ginger, Lemon

Whilst I'd rather brave the cold and huddle around bonfires at their sprawling Dalston Yard and Model Market style spaces, Street Feast's new Hawker House is a big improvement on last year, and the top floor is magnificent.  It's open every Friday and Saturday from 5pm until the 4th April (£4 after 7pm), and there's still nothing else quite like it in London.  Though it gets busy, the atmosphere is always electric.  Enjoy!

Rotary - Yum Bun - Monikers - Happiness Forgets - Looking Glass Cocktail Club

Thursday 4th April - This was my third outing into the East London hipster territories since the blog started.  My sister's boyfriend has just moved to Hoxton which gave me an excuse to explore some new places with them.  I put my hipster green jeans on and met my sister, Emily/Embob/Bobster etc, at Exit 2 of Old Street Station.

Our first stop was Rotary Bar and Diner (not near Exit 2 - Old Street Roundabout 1-0 Team List) which is part of the Rushmore Group (Milk and Honey, The Player, Giant Robot, Redhook and Danger of Death).  Downstairs is the Rotary Bar which is a members only drinking den, but upstairs is the more relaxed diner.  Embob and I ordered a  £10 'Giant Mojito' (one of six pint-sized cocktails on offer) which was presented in a Boston Shaker.  It took us a while to drink despite being excellent and is great value at a tenner.  Rotary is a temporary installation as building works are due to take place, though I assume they will move on to somewhere else, or return when work has finished.  The food looked good but we were saving room for other things, starting with Yum Bun.

Yum Bun serve up tasty, tiny steamed buns (known as 'Gua Bao' in Thailand) with fillings inspired by Chinese and Japanese flavours, for the cheap price of £3.50 for one or £6 for two.  They also have bento box deals and a dessert bun option with ice cream provided by Sorbitium Ices.  They are currently stationed right next to Rotary, having moved up in the world after starting life as a Street Food Van.  Our buns were satisfyingly squishy and moreish, and were served with a smile and a chat!

After swiftly despatching the buns that were yum, we tried and failed to get in to Nightjar without a booking (not sensible unless you arrive outside 10 minutes before it opens), but we weren't really expecting success anyway.  I will plan a trip more carefully at some point.  We wandered off towards Hoxton Square to try out a couple of bars.  On our way there, we spotted a cluster of hipsters on the street drinking weird fizzy drink based cocktails out of plastic cups.  This turned out to be the book launch for The Gathering of the Juggalos - a collection of photos covering a five day festival attended by 'Juggalos' (the followers of horrorcore rap group Insane Clown Posse apparently - Wikipedia tells me that I am not to confuse horrorcore with terrorcore, obvs).  We had some vodka mixed with Faygo (the soft drink often referenced by Insane Clown Posse, keep up!), some milk duds and a jello shot before running away.

We didn't have to run far to reach Happiness Forgets, a hidden underground bar on Hoxton Square with a fantastic reputation.  It was very busy when we arrived but one of the bar staff took my number so that he could text me when a table became free.  We decided to stay nearby so we popped into Monikers, a new school-themed restaurant and bar that has recently opened.  It was pretty quiet, but I would imagine it won't be long before this place is packed, as they have put a huge amount of effort into the décor, as well as the food and drink.  The menus are presented as old text books with doodles all over them, tables have drawers filled with crayons and football stickers, and there is even a school bus area upstairs where you can draw on the walls - the whole bus can be hired out if you so wish.  Alternatively, ask for the bus driver table when booking for a fun experience!  We were well looked after by Gianluca and his staff at the bar and I hope to return soon for the full restaurant experience.  We just stayed for one however, as I received a text with good news.

The elusive David Villa sticker

Em and I hopped back over to Happiness Forgets to claim our table.  We were still waiting for Al, who was stuck in his flat waiting for someone to arrive, so they put us in a cosy spot for two (with just enough room for a third).  The bar was buzzing, helped by the candlelit speakeasy vibe (though slightly hindered by the loud music that just didn't fit in my opinion) and we set about choosing some cocktails.  Our first two (Mr. McRae and Perfect Storm) were outstanding, rivalling the best drinks I have had so far from Candaleria in Paris.  Albert Sq. finally arrived in Hoxton Sq. and started playing catchup with a Dapperman Sour and some Dutch Courage whilst we waited for some Roast Potatoes with Chipotle Mayo (food provided by Master and Servant upstairs).  After a while, one of the staff came to tell us that they had sent the food back as it wasn't good enough for us, and that it would be free of charge!  When it did turn up, it was delicious.  With money to spare, we ordered some Honey and Pistachio doughnuts as well.

The service was top notch (though they didn't put any on the bill as it was obviously not up to their high standards!) and it's easily one of the best places that I have been to so far. They take bookings but only up until 8 - after that it is a friendly free for all. Growing a massive beard and wearing a checked shirt is advisable if you want to fit in with the Kings of Leon-esque hipster/lumberjack look - follow the link or see below for ideas.

We decided to pack in one more place before my last train from Shoreditch High Street so we sped over to the recently opened Looking Glass Cocktail Club on Hackney Road - the second Alice in Wonderland themed bar in the area along with Callooh Callay!  Apparently it is normally very busy with queues outside but it was totally empty. The friendly owner (who was either fully in character or on crack) took us "through the looking glass" into an even emptier room filled with mismatching retro furniture that probably looks a lot better when the place is full.

However deserted it was, I can't fault their cocktails!  Their list is really interesting so it's a shame I had to rush my decision - I went for a drinkable Pop Goes the Walrus (made with pop corn bourbon) whilst Alistair was very happy with his Shades of Green (vodka, dill syrup and absinthe mist).   They also very kindly made Em a fun mocktail for not much extra charge when she ordered a fruit juice.  The invention on show is matched by the taste, which reminds me of Southsider Cocktail Club in Battersea.

It is nowhere near as intimate as Happiness Forgets, but it's not trying to be.  Probably best to head here at the weekend - supposedly they sometimes have entertainment (not sure what exactly) in the larger room.  Alternatively (or additionally) head to the popular Callooh Callay cocktail bar around the corner for more Lewis Carroll-based antics - go through the wardrobe at the back to reach the hidden Jubjub Bar where you can find the Cantina de Cuervo Mexican pop up that is on until May 18th.  The main bar is launching their hotly anticipated new cocktail menu on April 23rd.

Sister Em gets 5 points on her List debut (are you reading Sister Jo?) whilst Al picks up 2 - not a bad start for my new Hoxton team.  Those East London hipsters are a nice bunch! Now I just need to get myself a lumberjack shirt...