Ceviche Old Street - Mr.Fogg's Tipsy Tea - Street Food at Voltaire

- A Peruvian Pisco Disco at the new Ceviche

- Tipsy Tea at Mr.Fogg's Mayfair residence

- Street food and live jazz at Voltaire

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Thursday 26th March - I was fortunate enough to be invited along to the launch party of Martin Morales' second Ceviche restaurant, which has just opened in Old Street on the historic former site of the Alexandra Trust Dining Rooms.  

They've paid homage to the old layout with similar signage and bustling open kitchens, but Martin Morales' love of art and music is also evident with the space doubling as a contemporary Peruvian art gallery (see some works here).  Space was made for DJ sets from Mr.Scruff and Natty Bo, a sign of Pisco Discos to come featuring music from Tiger's Milk Records, Martin Morales' Peruvian record label which you may have come across in Andina's Music Room on Shoreditch High Street.

The Music Room at Andina - showcase for Martin Morales' Tiger Milk Records

A return trip for a thorough test of the menu is in order, but after eating a tonne of tasters and sampling more than one drink from the dedicated Pisco bar, I've got enough to work with for now. The chefs weren't hiding, sweating away in front of our eyes with smiles on their faces, mixing up fresh ceviche, grilling chickens, and setting fire to various edible treats.

We grabbed at Torreja de Sesos (Lamb’s brain fritters, tomato and rocoto chilli jam), Tequeños de Ají de Gallina (Wonton fritters filled with traditional chicken recipe, onion, parmesan, single cream, amarillo chilli dip), Don Ceviche Seabass (amarillo chilli tigers milk, sweet potato, red onions, limo chilli), Corazón de la Tía (Panca marinated beef heart skewers, rocoto chilli sauce) and boxes of rotisserie chicken.  All delicious.

Pastel del Choclo (Corn and feta cheese savoury cake, Huancaina sauce, avocado, salsa criolla) were a revelation. I ate at least 15 of them...

To finish, we stuffed ourselves with sticky Picarones Old St (Pumpkin doughnuts with chancaca honey). Odd but moreish.

But it's not all about the food.  There's a serious cocktail bar here too with Peruvian Pisco naturally at the centre of it all.  In a nice twist on the classics, they have infused Pisco with various botanicals to create "Impostors" masquerading as whisky, gin, rum and tequila in Old Fashioneds, Negronis, Mai Tais and Sunrises.  

You may find it hard to look past their classic Pisco Sours, which they batch make to meet demand, but Duncan's Pisco Punch is worth a go, made with Pisco Italia, Pineapple Syrup, Sweet Vermouth and Bitters, and you can take home a pre-bottled version if you so wish.

There's plenty to enjoy on the bottled beer menu too including the Somos Libres Pale Ale brewed exclusively for Ceviche by Hammerton Brewery, plus beers from Wild Beer Co. and Siren.  It is a shame though that there's no sign of Peruvian craft beers. Perhaps they will turn up in the future.

Shot of Duncan's Pisco Punch taken from Ceviche's Instagram account

There's plenty to enjoy at Ceviche Old Street, there's space for everyone, and it won't break the bank. It's a welcome addition to the area, and I look forward to returning for a full meal soon.

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Friday 27th March - "There ain't no party like my nana's tea party" - Flight of the Conchords.

Whether you agree with this or not, you might like to venture over to Mr.Fogg's residence for his boozy twist on Afternoon Tea.

Alongside the usual spread of sandwiches, cakes, pastries and petit-fours, Phileas Fogg, Esq. also offers a selection of alcoholic teapots:

1840 - Earl Great infused Tanqueray No,TEN, Cointreau, Creme de Peche and Orange Marmalade

Woburn Abbey - English Breakfast infused Tanqueray No.TEN, Creme de Bergamot, Lemon Juice, Bee Pollen Sugar, and Milk on the side

Catherine of Braganza - Green Tea infused Tanqueray No.TEN, Cointreau, Creme de Apricot and Orange Marmalade

Anna Maria Russell - Tatratea Liqueur, Sloe Gin, Lemon Bitters, Ruinart Champagne

Belvoir Castle - Jasmine Tea infused Tanqueray No,TEN, Rose Liqueur, Pomegranatae Juice, Cherry Purée, Ruinart Champagne, Harry Brompton's London Iced Tea

Isabella Mary Beeton - Rooibos Tea infused Tanqueray No.TEN, Muddled Ginger, Ruinart Champagne

5th Duke of Rutland - Tatratea Liqueur, Cognac, Angostura Bitters, Absinthe, Ruinart Champagne

The Champagne Teas are smartly served with the Ruinart Champagne on the side for you to add, whilst the Gin Teas are ready to go. They wouldn't be my first tipple of choice, but they suit the occasion well.  Each teapot has its own little garnish to set them apart, but we lost track pretty early on.  Perhaps some delightful labels wouldn't go amiss? 

Elsewhere, the attention to detail at Mr.Fogg's is overwhelming - the magnificent décor; the immaculately dressed staff; the classical soundtrack; "The Illustrated London News" with upcoming events. This is clearly the Mayfair branch of the Inception Group (Bunga Bunga, Maggie's, Barts).  

Check out their new 1940s Underground Station themed bar - Cahoots

If you don't fancy stopping in for tea, the bar is just as delightful on a regular evening, or you could turn up for their Monday night talks - David Harper from BBC antiques shows is up next on 27th April. 

Mr.Fogg's Tipsy Tea is currently running every Friday at 3.01pm til 6.01pm and every Saturday at 2.01pm-4.01pm and 4.16pm-6.16pm. Mr.Fogg's is also gearing up for summer - a Hendricks Botanical Garden is currently being constructed outside.

Tipsy Tea Prices: £38/person for Tipsy Tea with Single Teapot // £58/person for Tipsy Tea with Bottomless Gin Teapot // £68/person for Tipsy Tea with Bottomless Champagne Teapot

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Tuesday 24th March - Haven't you always wanted to eat street food in a private vault whilst listening to some jazz from Mitch Winehouse and his band? Well NOW YOU CAN! 

Voltaire in Blackfriars has invited three of London's best street food traders to take over their kitchens until late May, as they also launch as a music venue in partnership with the Amy Winehouse Foundation.  Here are your food options:

1. The Cheese Truck - 25th March-10th April - Wednesday-Friday evenings, 5.30pm-10pm

Grilled cheese sandwiches. Simple. Gooey. Delicious. What the #foodporn hashtag was created for.

Cheese toasties are a big deal. Along with The Cheese Truck, we've got Grill My Cheese and Morty & Bob's slinging sandwiches on the streets, and The Melt Room setting up shop soon in Soho.  Get down to Voltaire to feast on this:

- Classic Keen's Cheddar, Ogleshield and Mixed Onion (£6.50)

- Cropwell Bishop Stilton, Sweet Cure Bacon and Pear Chutney (£7)

- Rosary Goat's Cheese, Honey and Walnuts with Rosemary Butter (£7)

- Queso Chihuahua Cheese, Chorizo and Rocket (£7.50)

Plus fondue fries, triple cheese croquettes with chilli and chorizo jam, and sweet stilton, dark chocolate and walnut brownies. Yes please. Read more about The Cheese Truck here.

2. Bill or Beak - 15th April-22nd May - Wednesday-Friday evenings, 5.30pm-10pm

Mega burgers built around duck (bill) and chicken (beak) - good luck with the first bite.

Some of the friendliest traders on the circuit, Bill or Beak made waves at Wapping Market in 2014, and ended the year in style running their own Turntables popup in Hackney Wick (along with The Cheese Truck and a few others).  Here's what you're having:

- Bill - shredded duck and pork, spring onions, coriander, mint, and a Vietnamese dressing with tempura shallots (£5)

- Beak - grilled, corn-fed chicken, Caesar anchovy dressing, tempura capers, rosemary croutons, and fresh parmesan (£5 - or both for £9)

Plus fries topped with house hoisin, pickled cucumber mayo, topped with chicken scratchings (£4.50)

Award-winning shot of the Beak burger by @annixontong

Bill AND Beak - captured by the mighty Gaztronome

The Bill or Beak brunch special - occasionally spotted at Wapping Market

3. Randy's Wing Bar - 6th-22nd May - Wednesday-Friday evenings, 5.30pm-10pm

No, not Randy Swing Bar. Careful on Google now... and don't ask which one of them is Randy.

Richard and Andy (get it now?) burst on to the street food scene with their signature Buffalo Wings after an extensive wing tasting pilgrimage to USA (it's a tough life), and are now working towards a permanent location.  If you don't catch them at Voltaire, try and get tickets for London Wing Fest before they're all gone.  Here's what to expect:

- Randy's Buffalo Wings with blue cheese and celery (£4.50 for 4)

- Randy's Asian Wings sprinkled with crushed fried peanuts and toasted sesame seeds (£4.50 for 4)

- Randy's Buffalo Shrimp with Lemon & Dill Dip (£5)

Plus Chicken Scratchings with Rosemary Salt or Asian 7 Spice (£3.50)

If you miss out at Voltaire, there will always be another chance to catch these fine foodies at work elsewhere.  Both The Cheese Truck and Bill or Beak are popping up at The Job Centre's Kitchen Hijack in Deptford throughout April for example.  

For more street food fun, keep tabs on the likes of Southbank Centre Food Market, Kerb and Street Feast.  The latter is gearing up to relaunch the brilliant Model Market in Lewisham on 17/18 April, with Dalston Yard and a brand new Shoreditch Yard site following soon after. It's going to be a great Summer!

Portland - Bad Egg - Little Yellow Door

Three different dining experiences on the blog today.  Click below to scroll down:

- Lunch at Portland, a relaxed new restaurant round the corner from the BBC
- Dinner at Neil Rankin's Bad Egg diner near the Barbican
- An Italian dinner party in The Little Yellow Door's fictional flatshare popup in Notting Hill

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Monday 12th January - Dad The List and I started the week in style at Portland, a new restaurant in a "long-forgotten clothes showroom" on Great Portland Street.  

Will Lander (Quality Chop House) and Daniel Morgenthau (previously at 10 Greek Street) were all smiles on the restaurant floor, whilst Merlin Labron-Johnson (ex-sous chef at Belgium's In De Wulf) and co. made the most of a pretty small kitchen.  Portland has a simple but stylish setup, with room for 45 covers, not counting the private room for 16.

Exterior shot taken from Portland website

I got Dad The List along with the promise of Portland's Lardy Cakes for afters, but sadly they didn't make the cut.  Luckily, a 60s soundtrack featuring the likes of Brenda Lee and Dinah Washington, and some superb, neon soft drinks kept him on board.  

Sorrel & Apple Juice and Lemon Iced Tea with Tarragon

Fresh bread arrived from the Little Bread Pedlar with the now customary whipped butter on the side. We followed this with a few snacks and starters:

- Pigs Head Croquettes, Kimchi Mayonnaise - £2 each

- Ox Tongue Sandwich, Sauerkraut, Mustard - £7.50

- Charred Brassicas, Smoked Egg Emulsion, Soy and Perigord Truffle - £8

- Hand-dived Scallops, Jerusalem Artichoke - £12

In the pick of the bunch, the "diamond of the kitchen" played second fiddle to a gloriously smoky pool of egg emulsion, alongside charred brussel tops.  Scallops and Jerusalem Artichoke were concealed in an unattractive sludge - never judge a book by its cover.  An Ox Tongue Sandwich and the Pigs Head Croquettes were perfect for sharing, though you may want one to yourself.

Little Bread Pedlar slices with whipped butter

Pigs Head Croquettes with Kimchi Mayonnaise

Ox Tongue Sandwich with Sauerkraut and Mustard

We usually aim to sample a range of mains, but we couldn't resist the Wild Game Pithivier with Black Truffle and Game Sauce for Two.  Will brought over the finished puff-pastry enclosed pie, filled on this occasion with mallard, before serving it in quarters alongside red cabbage and apple chips.  It appeared small at first, but we were almost defeated by that little beast.  Almost.

Wild Game Pithivier with Black Truffle and Game Sauce

To finish, it was always going to be the Hazelnut Eclair, although I have seen some enticing photos of the Chocolate Bar with Peanut Butter Praline and Peanut Ice Cream.  A fiver was a steal for a New Year resolution-ending delight that would sell for twice as much in La Patisserie des Reves a couple of roads over.

Hazelnut Eclair

Portland was full by the time we left at 2 p.m. - not bad for their first lunch service.  Some staff are finding their feet, but they've got a strong team behind them.  The cooking is classy, and it will only get better.  Two thumbs up for Portland.

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Tuesday 13th January - I've harped on about The Good Egg a great deal recently, so it's only fair that I give Bad Egg a shout-out too; not that I need an excuse. Note: I didn't say eggs-cuse. One down.

Neil Rankin got everyone's attention as Head Chef at Pitt Cue Co., before teaming up with Noble Inns to launch the outstanding Smokehouse in Islington; a second branch in Chiswick is imminent. Just before Christmas, he opened up Bad Egg in Moorgate, an area full of uninspiring chains.

Bad Eggs

Let's get one thing straight - this is not an egg trend.  Neither Joel Braham's The Good Egg nor Neil Rankin's Bad Egg are eggy concept eateries - they just have a fondness for the versatile little blighters. 

Bad Egg's menu has its fair share of Shakshuka, Huevos Rancheros and Hash showcasing the Arlington White Eggs (from Cackleberry Farm in the Cotswolds), but there's also all manner of Tacos, Fried Pork Belly Ribs and Burgers to choose from.  Neil himself describes it as a modern all-day diner, taking inspiration from Chicago's eclectic fusion scene.

Let's start with the booze first though.  Camden Pale & Hells are the limited draught options (a couple more would be nice), but there are some top canned beers in the fridges from Beavertown, Fourpure and Kona.  There's also prosecco at £7 a glass, and six white and red wines by the glass and bottle, starting at £3.25 for 125ml.

Considering the diner environment, I wasn't expecting much of a cocktail list, but there are some cracking options on there.  Misplaced American Arrogance is a must with Ilegal Mezcal, Cocchi Americano and Mesquite Peach.  Then there's Argy Bhaji with Kamm & Sons, curried apricot and ginger beer.  And if you need something stronger, go for either a Sweetcorn Old Fashioned or a Smoked Olive Martini.  Prices go from £8.50 all the way up to £12, which some may think too much for the setting, but the Moorgate locals can probably handle it.

Misplaced American Arrogance - Ilegal Mezcal, Cocchi Americano, Mesquite Peach

Fourpure Brewing Co. IPA

Egged on by our fantastic server Chris, we ordered a range of dishes:

- Nduja Cheese & Fried Egg Fries - full on food porn here with a bit of Heston-style science thrown in to create that gooey Nduja Cheese.  Order it when you walk through the door.

- Fried Pork Belly Rib - after a risqué discussion about whether to go Peking or Naked, we opted for the former, covering the double fried rib in soy, hoisin & ginger sauce. DOUBLE FRIED RIBS.

- Chicken Fried Fish Tacos - more food science here to make the fish appear KFC style alongside salsa, chipotle and guacamole.  There are three per portion so this is an easy one to share.

- Pulled Pork & Kimchi Hash - with gochujang and a fried egg.  It's fairly spicy, and the flavour is full on, so you may want to mix it up with some other dishes rather than take it on by yourself.  The salads & slaws help to balance it out.

- Nduja, Black Pudding & Pork Belly Hash - one of Neil's favourites for a reason.  This was the winner of the two hashes we tried; very moreish and comforting, with mild spice from the nduja.  The hash portion sizes are generous for the £8 price tag.

- Chilaquiles - Fried corn tacos, green salsa, chipotle, guacamole, peppers, chillies and a fried egg.  It's a traditional Mexican dish, often eaten for breakfast or brunch.  It was served colder than we were expecting, but was enjoyable and a nice veggie option on the table.

- Sides & Slaws - Potato & Dill Salad was better than your average; Cucumber, Avocado & Grapefruit added some colour (and health benefits) ; and Fennel & Apple Slaw was refreshing and worked well with the full flavoured ribs and hash dishes.

Nduja Cheese & Fried Egg Fries

Pulled Pork & Kimchi Hash

Fried Pork Belly Rib - Peking Style

3 salads / slaws for £10

We didn't dip in to the burger section as there's so much of interest elsewhere on the menu, but I would get involved on a second visit.  The home made cheese fondue with Raclette & Red Leicester sounds to die for.

Desserts are yet to make an appearance on the menu, but there are plans afoot to bring in milkshakes and one or two simple options that don't complicate things in the kitchen too much.  If our tasters of a Cornflake Milkshake prototype are anything to go by, they are on the right track.

Verdict: Bad Egg = Good Diner Dinner.  The location will limit my visits, but Bad Egg will be of great interest to the local work force who don't have much else to choose from.  It's a clever spot for a quick bite to eat either side of a trip to the Barbican, and don't forget it is open for breakfast from 8am. A No Reservations policy makes sense here as tables will turn around quickly.  Finally, a big shout out to the outstanding service across the board - there was a real sense of fun and Chris in particular brought the menu to life.  Be sure to get a Bad Egg sticker on your way out.

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Wednesday 14th January - Last year, Roxx was King of the popups in Notting Hill - a rowdy, rock'n'roll den which has since moved house.  In its place (from the same folk plus Press Play) is The Little Yellow Door, a quirky popup bar in the guise of a fictional flatshare.  

Before you go all anti-hipster concept on me, bear in mind that most of the owners do in fact live upstairs. Flatmate Kam has even opened up his personal Whatsapp number to take bookings informally, and his phone reveals a number of comedy conversations.  This cheeky process breaks down the social barriers between hosts and guests before they even meet, and really encourages you to become a regular.

The décor is fun, with all sorts of student accommodation odds and ends on the shelves and tables that Lalie has sourced from various markets, including some pictures of complete strangers in place of family photos.  Board games are strewn all over the place, goldfish struggle to survive, DVDs are piled up, The Big Lebowski is playing silently in the background, and magazines (doubling as menus) range from Timeout to Tatler. It's a versatile space which can quickly be reset after dinner parties to open up the room as a bar, and there's even a little outdoor snug that you should grab if it's free.

Full photo set on Matt The List : Facebook

The Wandering Chef is of the real flatmates, but one floor down he masquerades (loosely) as tenants of various nationalities, depending on the menu each week.  We were treated to Luigi's dinner party in the living room which takes place every Friday on their Eat + Meet, Drink + Play evening.  £35 (book ahead) gets you a tonne of delicious food, plus a welcome cocktail on arrival, which on our visit was the very drinkable Libertine Earl Grey gin sour, served with a jammy dodger.

They are planning to launch a different dinner night on Wednesdays, with three shorter sittings (probably two courses for £20) open to whoever is in the flat and feeling peckish.  There is also always the bar menu, with plates fitting into categories like Mr "Overheard in Waitrose", Corner Shop Bandit, and The Fridge Raider.  A handy blackboard count tells you how many portions of each are left.  

We settled down for all of this:

Antipasti:

- Burrata with Mint Pesto, Cured Tomatoes, Smoked Aubergine, Confit Onions and Rye Crisps

- Prosciutto, Lardo, Peach, Basil & Almonds

- Smoked Beef Carpaccio with Mustard Dressing, Crispy Capers and Salted Ricotta

- Arancini of Mushroom and Asparagus with Truffle & Porcini Mayonnaise

Primi:

- Egg Tagliatelle with Spiced Duck Ragu

Secondi:

- Belly Porchetta with Caponata, Pickled Baby Vegetables, Sultanas, Capers, and Pine Nuts

Dolci:

- Sicilian Cannoli with Pistachios

- Pine Nut Caramel Tart with Marsala Raisins

- Chocolate and Tiramisu Panna Cotta

Caffé:

- Coffee & Cigarettes (Grand Brulot, Espresso Coffee, Tobacco Gomme)

Antipasti

Mushroom & Asparagus Arancini with Truffle and Porcini Mayonnaise

Tagliatelle with Spiced Duck Ragu

Belly Porchetta with Caponata, Pickled Baby Veg, Sultanas, Capers, and Pine Nuts

Various Dolcetti

Pint Nut Caramel Tart with Marsala Raisins

Sicilian Cannoli with Pistachios

Chocolate & Tiramisu Panna Cotta

Coffee & Cigarettes

Coffee & Cigarettes

Aside from a couple of misfires in the Dolcetti department, dinner was a huge success.  The Antipasti stole the show, with the Smoked Beef Carpaccio being a particular highlight.  We playfully served our own Duck Ragu into large mugs, but this was a serious dish.  I didn't leave much room for the excellent Belly Porchetta - the old Italian Secondi always catches me out.  A sweet Espresso Martini was a fine way to seal the meal before we made our way back over to the bar for a bit of house punch.

To end the evening in style, a blender of booze known is the Towering Inferno was impressively set on fire. Probably not something to try in your own flat.  It all happened in a flash, so you'll have to use your imagination, or order one yourself!

Flame fun in the bar after dinner

The Little Yellow Door is a charming concept, wonderfully realised, in an area that doesn't have anything else like it.  I highly recommend going along for the full dinner party experience with a few friends.  I'll be heading back when they launch their games night. Is there a better way to spend an evening than with Mario Kart, Hungry Hippos and a few beers?

www.thelittleyellowdoor.co.uk

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Matt The Tips - January got off to a slow start, but the popups and events are starting to rear their heads.  I hope to get to When Mac Met Cheese's three month popup that starts today (Friday 16th) at The Shop in Kensal Rise.  Kerb's Clubhouse is getting back underway tonight in Hackney Wick after a Christmas break.  Beer fans should head tomorrow (Saturday 17th) to The Finborough Arms for a first look at The Park Brewery beers, and to Brewdog Shepherd's Bush for a Colorado Tap Takeover. 

The Cornish Grill is currently soft launching at The Three Crowns in Stoke Newington. Street Feast's Hawker House is scheduled to return in a new venue over three floors on 30th January. And that same evening, The Bottle Shop is launching a new popup in Scandal Coffee in Waterloo. That should be enough to keep us busy.