That Hungry Chef - Zoe's Ghana Kitchen - Smokehouse - Joe's Southern Kitchen

Today on the blog, a round up of some recent eats including a Goan supper club, a Ghanaian popup, and second sites in the suburbs for two reliable restaurants.

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First up, it's That Hungry Chef.  I've somehow managed to avoid attending any supper clubs over the last two years of Matt The Listing, perhaps due to the overwhelming number of new eateries that roar in to town on a weekly basis.  This year I will be balancing the scales.

Pratap Chahal, a.k.a That Hungry Chef, and his wife Nikhat welcomed us in to their stunning Holloway home on a sunny Thursday evening, along with 12 or so other charming randomers, for a Traditional Goan Thali.  We arrived early to take a tour of their magical garden that is used for outdoor dinners, brunches and BBQs in the summer months.  Keep an eye out for that hippo.

As Pratap calmly applied the finishing touches in his tiny kitchen, we made friends around the room, bonding over our BYOB choices whilst glancing enviously towards Pratap & Nikhat's booze chest.  A chilli sitting on each place setting threatened to become a supper club hazing dare, but thankfully the glorious home-cooked food started arriving before anyone caved.  

That Hungry Chef formally introduced himself, discussing the evening ahead and his one rule, nailed above the kitchen door - "Kiss The Chef".  He then produced the simply magnificent Sannas & pork ‘vinha d’alhos’ - Fermented rice pancakes with a mild pork vindaloo, 6,000 or so miles away from the hideous British version.  No cutlery was needed and it was gone in seconds.  More please.

Soon after, the all-in-one thali platters were laid out, and those in the know put their desserts to one side for later.  In no particular order, we all got stuck in to our little bowls of Nishtyachi Kodii (Traditional Goan fish curry), Temperado (green beans & carrots in spiced coconut milk) and Foogath (curried spring cabbage stir fry) and mopped everything up with Red Rice & Peanut Pulao and Crispy Plantain Wafers.  Delicious.

After polishing off the savoury selection, I went fishing for some Pickled Walnut and Doce (chickpea and cardamom fudge) in my delectable Sago & Coconut Pudding (similar in texture to tapioca).

Due to the thali-style presentation, dinner was over rather quicker than I had expected, but our hosts kept us all happy with some bonus Bebinca (a 16 layered pancake cake! - recipe here) and some sneaky tasters of East London Liquor Company Gin and Bunnahabhain 12.  

A few drams later, (and after some bonding with Pratap over smoked beer and obscure Eddie Izzard skits), we proposed that they open up a B&B service.  Denied.  Fingers crossed it will be an option next time. In a nice touch, we were sent home with one of That Hungry Chef's artisanal food products.  I came away with a jar of dangerously hot Mojo Risin' green relish salsa which I'm ever so slightly afraid of.

It was an unfortgettable evening of fine food and fun in great company, possibly setting the bar a little too high for my future supper club escapades.  There are no more Goan Thali evenings coming up, but you might want to grab some tickets to either the Secret Garden Barbecue or the intriguing Perfume : The Edible Scent events before they sell out.  You won't regret it.

More supper clubs worth investigating:

Uyen Luu - A Vietnamese Feast in Uyen's airy London Fields home

The Adobros - Traditional Filipino food from two brothers in New Cross

Disappearing Dining Club - All manner of dinner parties in fun locations

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From Goa to Ghana, Zoe Adjonyoh's Ghana Kitchen is half way through a two month residency at The King & Co. in Clapham Common.  In other words, you've got until 31st May to sample Zoe's signature peanut butter & mutton stew in cosy pub surroundings.

Zoe serves up her modern twist on traditional Ghanaian food in small plate form.. We went along last month for an evening of sharing plates and African beer.

Highlights included moreish Okra Tempura with shito hot pepper sauce, hearty Red Red beans with Kelewele chunky plantain chips and Jollof Chicken Skewers with jollof rice; the latter carrying quite a kick which caught me off guard more than once.  

Okra Tempura with shito hot pepper sauce

Red Red Beans with Kelewele chunky plantain chips

Jollof Chicken Skewers

Jollof Rice

The pick of the mains is indeed her homespun adaptation of West African peanut butter stew which first starred at Hackney Wick Arts Festival four years ago, launching Zoe's street food & popup career.  In an exciting development, she has just confirmed that Zoe's Ghana Kitchen will be opening a permanent restaurant later this month in a shipping container in the hotly anticipated Pop Brixton campus.  Here's what Zoe had to say:

“I'm so excited to be opening our first fixed dining space in Brixton, south of the river and close to where I grew up. We hope to become part of Brixton’s natural buzz and vibrancy, and to build upon this in coming years while spreading the love for modern Ghanaian cuisine!”

Artists representation of Pop Brixton's shipping container campus

But before that launches, you should head to Clapham for a taste; and why not do it in style on 13th May when Zoe is teaming up with A Grape Night In for "It's Ghana Be Grape" - 5 collaborative courses of wine and food.

Zoe’s current two month residency at The King & Co pub in Clapham ends on Sunday 31st May.

Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen at POP Brixton will aim to open in late May. 

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Now for a quick round up of second sites for existing eateries.  First up, Neil Rankin & Noble Inns have converted Chiswick's Hole In The Wall gastropub in to another meaty Smokehouse, following on from success with the concept in Islington.

The North London branch has an enviable beer selection that the W4 outpost doesn't quite match, but there is a marvellous whisky bar out West instead with 100+ bottles from all over the world.  Arrive early and splash out on a pre-dinner Yamazaki 18yo dram.

On the food front, Neil Rankin's influence is clear as several Korean flavours (also prominent at Bad Egg) make their way into the smoky, meaty menu.  A table of 6 is what you need if you want to order everything on the menu, and that's exactly what we did.  It was all rather wonderful, but I've highlighted a winner from each section in case you are dining solo.

Starters

Somerset goat tacos with chipotle & green salsa 6.00

Burnt leeks, Portobello, truffle oil, parmesan & Cackleberry Farm egg 6.50

Chopped brisket roll & gochujang 7.00

Deep fried rock oyster, beef dripping toast, smoked bone marrow 7.50

Fresh picked Cornish crab on sourdough toast 8.00

Foie gras, apple pie & Cackleberry Farm egg 10.00

Mains

Blackened delica pumpkin, tahini, dill & flat bread 13.50

“The Sphere”; smoked ham hock, pigs cheek & squid romesco 16.00

Coal baked salmon with a warm Thai salad 16.50

Smoked Elwy Valley lamb shoulder, polenta, raclette & sambal 16.50

Shortrib bourguignon, creamy mash, bacon & Essex Portobello mushrooms 17.50

Smoked Telfarm duck breast, kimchi & potato cake 17.50

Sides

Grilled Romaine lettuce 3.00

Caramel roast potatoes 3.00

Chilli kale 4.00

Korean pulled pork 4.00

Desserts

Double D tart 6.50

Apple crumble & bourbon prunes 6.50

Poached rhubarb, cream cheese & almond praline 6.50

Rum & raisin rice pudding, blackberry jam & almond 6.50

Burnt leeks, Portobello, truffle oil, parmesan & Cackleberry Farm egg

Deep fried rock oyster, beef dripping toast, smoked bone marrow

Chopped brisket roll & gochujang

Chopped brisket roll & gochujang

Apple crumble & bourbon prunes

Smokehouse Chiswick is ever so slightly in the middle of nowhere, so you might want to make the most of it by ticking off the Dragonfly Brewery (at The George and Dragon pub), Charlotte's W4 (for food and gin), The Italian Job (for Italian craft beer), and Outsider Tart (for American baked treats). And if you are really keen, return another time for American soul food at Blue Plate, and Wednesday night "Supper Clubs" at The Griffin from a former Waldorf Astoria chef.  Or just save up all of your pennies and go to Hedone.  Sorted.

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Joe's Southern Kitchen and Bar have opened up a second site in Kentish Town where Kentish Canteen and Shebeen used to be, complete with a Jailbird basement bar making use of old police cells, much like Knowhere Special next door.

Make no mistake, you need to come hungry and you should probably bring a bib.  24 hour sweet tea brined free range chicken with lemon dust is the order of the day, but there are plenty of other dishes to get stuck in to. Turn up with 10 or more people and you can opt for the "Feed Me" feast menu which is served family style for sharing to avoid having to make difficult choices.

24 Hour Sweet Tea Brined Free Range Chicken with Lemon Dust - Photo by Gaztronome

We had quite a feast ourselves, tucking in to enjoyable portions of Devilled Eggs, Mac'N'Cheese, Shrimp'N'Grits and Collard Greens. alongside buckets of Fried Chicken and Buckwheat Waffles with Bourbon Maple Syrup and Chicken Gravy, but two small plates stood out in particular.

Demand a pan of their Gooey Corn Spoon Bread with Clotted Cream and Red Leicester Cheese, followed swiflty by the Deep Fried Short Rib Meat Loaf with Red Onion Jam, Poached Egg and Dijonnaise. I didn't want to share the latter, at all. Both are worthy of the #foodporn hashtag.  I can also recommend the Artichoke, Spinach & Cheddar Dip which I remember devouring in their Covent Garden outpost. Larger plates of 8 Hour Slow Roast Beef Short Rib and Blackened Catfish Fillet will surely not disappoint either.

Unsurprisingly, Joe's Southern is also well set up for Breakfast and Brunch, opening from 8am-11.45am Monday-Friday with bottomless filter coffee, and 9am-4pm on Saturday & Sunday for Breakfast Muffins and Gravy'N'Biscuits.

But you must pay Joe's a visit when desserts are up for grabs, and order them all.  Southern Pecan Pie with Jim Beam Honey Cream, Peanut Butter Fudge Pie, and Iced Honeycomb & Chocolate Parfait Sandwich are all stonking, and only £4.00 each?! Get involved. 

Gooey Corn Spoon Bread with Clotted Cream and Red Leicester Cheese

Deep Fried Short Rib Meat Loaf with Red Onion Jam, Poached Egg and Dijonnaise

Mac'N'Cheese with Four Cheeses and a Biscuit Crust

Iced Honeycomb & Chocolate Parfait Sandwich

Kentish Town is on a bit of a roll at the moment with new openings aplenty, so you might want to make a day of it.  Be sure to spend a penny in Ladies & Gentlemen, a cocktail bar in a converted public toilet from William Borrell of Vestal Vodka.  You might also want to check out Patron Cave A Manger for French food & wine, Caps & Taps for craft beer to takeaway, and soon a new Camden Town Brewery pub on the site of O'Reilly's.

There are plenty of older spots worth a look too, such as Shoe Shop, Anima E Cuoré, and The Southampton Arms.  As ever, Kentish Towner is your best bet for up to date North London food & drink news.

Portland - Bad Egg - Little Yellow Door

Three different dining experiences on the blog today.  Click below to scroll down:

- Lunch at Portland, a relaxed new restaurant round the corner from the BBC
- Dinner at Neil Rankin's Bad Egg diner near the Barbican
- An Italian dinner party in The Little Yellow Door's fictional flatshare popup in Notting Hill

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Monday 12th January - Dad The List and I started the week in style at Portland, a new restaurant in a "long-forgotten clothes showroom" on Great Portland Street.  

Will Lander (Quality Chop House) and Daniel Morgenthau (previously at 10 Greek Street) were all smiles on the restaurant floor, whilst Merlin Labron-Johnson (ex-sous chef at Belgium's In De Wulf) and co. made the most of a pretty small kitchen.  Portland has a simple but stylish setup, with room for 45 covers, not counting the private room for 16.

Exterior shot taken from Portland website

I got Dad The List along with the promise of Portland's Lardy Cakes for afters, but sadly they didn't make the cut.  Luckily, a 60s soundtrack featuring the likes of Brenda Lee and Dinah Washington, and some superb, neon soft drinks kept him on board.  

Sorrel & Apple Juice and Lemon Iced Tea with Tarragon

Fresh bread arrived from the Little Bread Pedlar with the now customary whipped butter on the side. We followed this with a few snacks and starters:

- Pigs Head Croquettes, Kimchi Mayonnaise - £2 each

- Ox Tongue Sandwich, Sauerkraut, Mustard - £7.50

- Charred Brassicas, Smoked Egg Emulsion, Soy and Perigord Truffle - £8

- Hand-dived Scallops, Jerusalem Artichoke - £12

In the pick of the bunch, the "diamond of the kitchen" played second fiddle to a gloriously smoky pool of egg emulsion, alongside charred brussel tops.  Scallops and Jerusalem Artichoke were concealed in an unattractive sludge - never judge a book by its cover.  An Ox Tongue Sandwich and the Pigs Head Croquettes were perfect for sharing, though you may want one to yourself.

Little Bread Pedlar slices with whipped butter

Pigs Head Croquettes with Kimchi Mayonnaise

Ox Tongue Sandwich with Sauerkraut and Mustard

We usually aim to sample a range of mains, but we couldn't resist the Wild Game Pithivier with Black Truffle and Game Sauce for Two.  Will brought over the finished puff-pastry enclosed pie, filled on this occasion with mallard, before serving it in quarters alongside red cabbage and apple chips.  It appeared small at first, but we were almost defeated by that little beast.  Almost.

Wild Game Pithivier with Black Truffle and Game Sauce

To finish, it was always going to be the Hazelnut Eclair, although I have seen some enticing photos of the Chocolate Bar with Peanut Butter Praline and Peanut Ice Cream.  A fiver was a steal for a New Year resolution-ending delight that would sell for twice as much in La Patisserie des Reves a couple of roads over.

Hazelnut Eclair

Portland was full by the time we left at 2 p.m. - not bad for their first lunch service.  Some staff are finding their feet, but they've got a strong team behind them.  The cooking is classy, and it will only get better.  Two thumbs up for Portland.

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Tuesday 13th January - I've harped on about The Good Egg a great deal recently, so it's only fair that I give Bad Egg a shout-out too; not that I need an excuse. Note: I didn't say eggs-cuse. One down.

Neil Rankin got everyone's attention as Head Chef at Pitt Cue Co., before teaming up with Noble Inns to launch the outstanding Smokehouse in Islington; a second branch in Chiswick is imminent. Just before Christmas, he opened up Bad Egg in Moorgate, an area full of uninspiring chains.

Bad Eggs

Let's get one thing straight - this is not an egg trend.  Neither Joel Braham's The Good Egg nor Neil Rankin's Bad Egg are eggy concept eateries - they just have a fondness for the versatile little blighters. 

Bad Egg's menu has its fair share of Shakshuka, Huevos Rancheros and Hash showcasing the Arlington White Eggs (from Cackleberry Farm in the Cotswolds), but there's also all manner of Tacos, Fried Pork Belly Ribs and Burgers to choose from.  Neil himself describes it as a modern all-day diner, taking inspiration from Chicago's eclectic fusion scene.

Let's start with the booze first though.  Camden Pale & Hells are the limited draught options (a couple more would be nice), but there are some top canned beers in the fridges from Beavertown, Fourpure and Kona.  There's also prosecco at £7 a glass, and six white and red wines by the glass and bottle, starting at £3.25 for 125ml.

Considering the diner environment, I wasn't expecting much of a cocktail list, but there are some cracking options on there.  Misplaced American Arrogance is a must with Ilegal Mezcal, Cocchi Americano and Mesquite Peach.  Then there's Argy Bhaji with Kamm & Sons, curried apricot and ginger beer.  And if you need something stronger, go for either a Sweetcorn Old Fashioned or a Smoked Olive Martini.  Prices go from £8.50 all the way up to £12, which some may think too much for the setting, but the Moorgate locals can probably handle it.

Misplaced American Arrogance - Ilegal Mezcal, Cocchi Americano, Mesquite Peach

Fourpure Brewing Co. IPA

Egged on by our fantastic server Chris, we ordered a range of dishes:

- Nduja Cheese & Fried Egg Fries - full on food porn here with a bit of Heston-style science thrown in to create that gooey Nduja Cheese.  Order it when you walk through the door.

- Fried Pork Belly Rib - after a risqué discussion about whether to go Peking or Naked, we opted for the former, covering the double fried rib in soy, hoisin & ginger sauce. DOUBLE FRIED RIBS.

- Chicken Fried Fish Tacos - more food science here to make the fish appear KFC style alongside salsa, chipotle and guacamole.  There are three per portion so this is an easy one to share.

- Pulled Pork & Kimchi Hash - with gochujang and a fried egg.  It's fairly spicy, and the flavour is full on, so you may want to mix it up with some other dishes rather than take it on by yourself.  The salads & slaws help to balance it out.

- Nduja, Black Pudding & Pork Belly Hash - one of Neil's favourites for a reason.  This was the winner of the two hashes we tried; very moreish and comforting, with mild spice from the nduja.  The hash portion sizes are generous for the £8 price tag.

- Chilaquiles - Fried corn tacos, green salsa, chipotle, guacamole, peppers, chillies and a fried egg.  It's a traditional Mexican dish, often eaten for breakfast or brunch.  It was served colder than we were expecting, but was enjoyable and a nice veggie option on the table.

- Sides & Slaws - Potato & Dill Salad was better than your average; Cucumber, Avocado & Grapefruit added some colour (and health benefits) ; and Fennel & Apple Slaw was refreshing and worked well with the full flavoured ribs and hash dishes.

Nduja Cheese & Fried Egg Fries

Pulled Pork & Kimchi Hash

Fried Pork Belly Rib - Peking Style

3 salads / slaws for £10

We didn't dip in to the burger section as there's so much of interest elsewhere on the menu, but I would get involved on a second visit.  The home made cheese fondue with Raclette & Red Leicester sounds to die for.

Desserts are yet to make an appearance on the menu, but there are plans afoot to bring in milkshakes and one or two simple options that don't complicate things in the kitchen too much.  If our tasters of a Cornflake Milkshake prototype are anything to go by, they are on the right track.

Verdict: Bad Egg = Good Diner Dinner.  The location will limit my visits, but Bad Egg will be of great interest to the local work force who don't have much else to choose from.  It's a clever spot for a quick bite to eat either side of a trip to the Barbican, and don't forget it is open for breakfast from 8am. A No Reservations policy makes sense here as tables will turn around quickly.  Finally, a big shout out to the outstanding service across the board - there was a real sense of fun and Chris in particular brought the menu to life.  Be sure to get a Bad Egg sticker on your way out.

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Wednesday 14th January - Last year, Roxx was King of the popups in Notting Hill - a rowdy, rock'n'roll den which has since moved house.  In its place (from the same folk plus Press Play) is The Little Yellow Door, a quirky popup bar in the guise of a fictional flatshare.  

Before you go all anti-hipster concept on me, bear in mind that most of the owners do in fact live upstairs. Flatmate Kam has even opened up his personal Whatsapp number to take bookings informally, and his phone reveals a number of comedy conversations.  This cheeky process breaks down the social barriers between hosts and guests before they even meet, and really encourages you to become a regular.

The décor is fun, with all sorts of student accommodation odds and ends on the shelves and tables that Lalie has sourced from various markets, including some pictures of complete strangers in place of family photos.  Board games are strewn all over the place, goldfish struggle to survive, DVDs are piled up, The Big Lebowski is playing silently in the background, and magazines (doubling as menus) range from Timeout to Tatler. It's a versatile space which can quickly be reset after dinner parties to open up the room as a bar, and there's even a little outdoor snug that you should grab if it's free.

Full photo set on Matt The List : Facebook

The Wandering Chef is of the real flatmates, but one floor down he masquerades (loosely) as tenants of various nationalities, depending on the menu each week.  We were treated to Luigi's dinner party in the living room which takes place every Friday on their Eat + Meet, Drink + Play evening.  £35 (book ahead) gets you a tonne of delicious food, plus a welcome cocktail on arrival, which on our visit was the very drinkable Libertine Earl Grey gin sour, served with a jammy dodger.

They are planning to launch a different dinner night on Wednesdays, with three shorter sittings (probably two courses for £20) open to whoever is in the flat and feeling peckish.  There is also always the bar menu, with plates fitting into categories like Mr "Overheard in Waitrose", Corner Shop Bandit, and The Fridge Raider.  A handy blackboard count tells you how many portions of each are left.  

We settled down for all of this:

Antipasti:

- Burrata with Mint Pesto, Cured Tomatoes, Smoked Aubergine, Confit Onions and Rye Crisps

- Prosciutto, Lardo, Peach, Basil & Almonds

- Smoked Beef Carpaccio with Mustard Dressing, Crispy Capers and Salted Ricotta

- Arancini of Mushroom and Asparagus with Truffle & Porcini Mayonnaise

Primi:

- Egg Tagliatelle with Spiced Duck Ragu

Secondi:

- Belly Porchetta with Caponata, Pickled Baby Vegetables, Sultanas, Capers, and Pine Nuts

Dolci:

- Sicilian Cannoli with Pistachios

- Pine Nut Caramel Tart with Marsala Raisins

- Chocolate and Tiramisu Panna Cotta

Caffé:

- Coffee & Cigarettes (Grand Brulot, Espresso Coffee, Tobacco Gomme)

Antipasti

Mushroom & Asparagus Arancini with Truffle and Porcini Mayonnaise

Tagliatelle with Spiced Duck Ragu

Belly Porchetta with Caponata, Pickled Baby Veg, Sultanas, Capers, and Pine Nuts

Various Dolcetti

Pint Nut Caramel Tart with Marsala Raisins

Sicilian Cannoli with Pistachios

Chocolate & Tiramisu Panna Cotta

Coffee & Cigarettes

Coffee & Cigarettes

Aside from a couple of misfires in the Dolcetti department, dinner was a huge success.  The Antipasti stole the show, with the Smoked Beef Carpaccio being a particular highlight.  We playfully served our own Duck Ragu into large mugs, but this was a serious dish.  I didn't leave much room for the excellent Belly Porchetta - the old Italian Secondi always catches me out.  A sweet Espresso Martini was a fine way to seal the meal before we made our way back over to the bar for a bit of house punch.

To end the evening in style, a blender of booze known is the Towering Inferno was impressively set on fire. Probably not something to try in your own flat.  It all happened in a flash, so you'll have to use your imagination, or order one yourself!

Flame fun in the bar after dinner

The Little Yellow Door is a charming concept, wonderfully realised, in an area that doesn't have anything else like it.  I highly recommend going along for the full dinner party experience with a few friends.  I'll be heading back when they launch their games night. Is there a better way to spend an evening than with Mario Kart, Hungry Hippos and a few beers?

www.thelittleyellowdoor.co.uk

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Matt The Tips - January got off to a slow start, but the popups and events are starting to rear their heads.  I hope to get to When Mac Met Cheese's three month popup that starts today (Friday 16th) at The Shop in Kensal Rise.  Kerb's Clubhouse is getting back underway tonight in Hackney Wick after a Christmas break.  Beer fans should head tomorrow (Saturday 17th) to The Finborough Arms for a first look at The Park Brewery beers, and to Brewdog Shepherd's Bush for a Colorado Tap Takeover. 

The Cornish Grill is currently soft launching at The Three Crowns in Stoke Newington. Street Feast's Hawker House is scheduled to return in a new venue over three floors on 30th January. And that same evening, The Bottle Shop is launching a new popup in Scandal Coffee in Waterloo. That should be enough to keep us busy.